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Arduino Controller?

 
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LaughingCheese
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Joined: 24 Mar 2008
Posts: 138

PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:10 am    Post subject: Arduino Controller? Reply with quote

Would the Arduino controller be sufficient for a small cnc machine? Like 2' x 2' or 4' x 4'?
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danipe70
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Joined: 07 Jan 2010
Posts: 12
Location: MADRID

PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi LaughingCheese, in my homemade cnc, I used an inteface from de page

http://www.esteca55.com.ar/proyectos.html

and the drivers are based in the C.I. SLA7260 (look in the web)

and trey work very good.

You donīt need a controller. You need a computer and a LPT1 port, and programs like mach3 or Kcam to control de motors.
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LaughingCheese
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Joined: 24 Mar 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danipe70 wrote:
Hi LaughingCheese, in my homemade cnc, I used an inteface from de page

http://www.esteca55.com.ar/proyectos.html

and the drivers are based in the C.I. SLA7260 (look in the web)

and trey work very good.


Cool, I'll look into it, thanks.

Quote:
You donīt need a controller. You need a computer and a LPT1 port, and programs like mach3 or Kcam to control de motors.


Cool. LPT1 port may be an issue tho. I suppose I could rip one off my old computer. :p

Anyway, I'm planning on building this CNC machine, except slightly larger:

Easy-to-Build-Desk-Top 3 Axis Mini CNC

And I'm going with this software:

EMC2


Trying to be as cost efficient as possible here. I don't need something too large, just like a 48" x 48 " cutting area. That's probably too big too, since I just need enough space to cut molds of body parts (head, hands, legs, etc.).
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danipe70
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Joined: 07 Jan 2010
Posts: 12
Location: MADRID

PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My CNC is made of mdf and i used rails of kitchenīs drawer for the movement of ejes X and Y. I think is the cheapest and easy way. With this machine i can cut mdf, wood, foam, and aluminiun (very slow).





Look the topic of Culvanīs CNC. I post there some photos of the first part of a helmet in foam of 3 cms.
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danipe70
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Posts: 12
Location: MADRID

PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some photos:



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LaughingCheese
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Joined: 24 Mar 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome work man!

About cutting aluminum, I gather it would wear down the bit pretty fast since aluminum would be the hardest material you were cutting with that?

Also that looks like it has enough Z height for building stormtrooper helmet molds?

I'm wondering because I was browsing some other CNC projects on Instructables and was worried that some have really short Z heights.
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danipe70
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Location: MADRID

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Donīt worry about de height, also 10 cms would be sufficient. Try to cut more than 6 cms will bring other problems like:
- The milling tools are no longer than 5 cms.
- The cutting length is no longer than 1,5 cms. (For Shank diameter: 3.175mm (1/8’’))

I think the best and rapid way to make models is:
- Divide the autocad model in sheets of 3 cms or 6 cms. Models in http://www.scifi3d.com/. (I donīt see me sculping clay)
- Import de sheets to a program to generate de GCode, like "Rhinoceros" with RhinoCam Plugin.
- In this program you will define the measures of the milling machine and milling method, to cut foam i used de "Pararell finishing". Decide the milling method depends on: the cutting lenght, how is the milling tool long, etc..
Look this: http://www.rhino3d.com/resources/display.asp?language=&listing=56.
- With RhinoCam generates Gcode.
- Import the Gcode file to programs line Mach3, Kcam, Etc. to control de motors.
- Cut the sheets.
- Join the diferents sheets.
- Apply a coat of epoxi resin to hardener the model, not epoxy resin because it will melt the foam. This is because the pressure and heat in the vacuun forming, deform the model. Sand, check and paint the model.
- Now is prepared to use in a vacuun former machine.

I still doing the foam model, but i thing that use the resin to hardener it is the best and cheapest way. In some places talk about fiberglass, silicone mold, etc..
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LaughingCheese
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Joined: 24 Mar 2008
Posts: 138

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danipe70 wrote:
Donīt worry about de height, also 10 cms would be sufficient. Try to cut more than 6 cms will bring other problems like:
- The milling tools are no longer than 5 cms.
- The cutting length is no longer than 1,5 cms. (For Shank diameter: 3.175mm (1/8’’))




Quote:
I think the best and rapid way to make models is:
- Divide the autocad model in sheets of 3 cms or 6 cms. Models in http://www.scifi3d.com/. (I donīt see me sculping clay)
- Import de sheets to a program to generate de GCode, like "Rhinoceros" with RhinoCam Plugin.
- In this program you will define the measures of the milling machine and milling method, to cut foam i used de "Pararell finishing". Decide the milling method depends on: the cutting lenght, how is the milling tool long, etc..
Look this: http://www.rhino3d.com/resources/display.asp?language=&listing=56.
- With RhinoCam generates Gcode.
- Import the Gcode file to programs line Mach3, Kcam, Etc. to control de motors.
- Cut the sheets.
- Join the diferents sheets.
- Apply a coat of epoxi resin to hardener the model, not epoxy resin because it will melt the foam. This is because the pressure and heat in the vacuun forming, deform the model. Sand, check and paint the model.
- Now is prepared to use in a vacuun former machine.


I've been looking at Rhino for a while now, looks like a cool program, especially for CNC.

Quote:
I still doing the foam model, but i thing that use the resin to hardener it is the best and cheapest way. In some places talk about fiberglass, silicone mold, etc..


I plan on using foam and MDF, and even aluminum, not for a mold, but just cut directly on the CNC.
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Culvan
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Joined: 20 May 2008
Posts: 85
Location: Kansas City, MO

PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stepper motors require quite a bit of power to move around with the strength they need. It's more power than an LPT port can provide on it's own. There are stepper motor driver circuits that provide the missing power. I got mine from here http://www.hobbycnc.com/products/hobbycnc-pro-driver-board-packages/. There are some instructions on instructables on how to make your own CNC driver cicuits too. I also found some places on E-bay that sell assembled kits for these same functions. Probably would've been a better way to go since it would've save a lot of soldering.

An interesting note about machining aluminum is that it is actually similar to machining wood. There are bits designed to cut aluminum and those are good bits to use on wood too.

Andy

LaughingCheese wrote:
danipe70 wrote:
Hi LaughingCheese, in my homemade cnc, I used an inteface from de page

http://www.esteca55.com.ar/proyectos.html

and the drivers are based in the C.I. SLA7260 (look in the web)

and trey work very good.


Cool, I'll look into it, thanks.

Quote:
You donīt need a controller. You need a computer and a LPT1 port, and programs like mach3 or Kcam to control de motors.


Cool. LPT1 port may be an issue tho. I suppose I could rip one off my old computer. :p

Anyway, I'm planning on building this CNC machine, except slightly larger:

Easy-to-Build-Desk-Top 3 Axis Mini CNC

And I'm going with this software:

EMC2


Trying to be as cost efficient as possible here. I don't need something too large, just like a 48" x 48 " cutting area. That's probably too big too, since I just need enough space to cut molds of body parts (head, hands, legs, etc.).
[url][/url]
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LaughingCheese
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Joined: 24 Mar 2008
Posts: 138

PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Culvan wrote:
The stepper motors require quite a bit of power to move around with the strength they need. It's more power than an LPT port can provide on it's own. There are stepper motor driver circuits that provide the missing power. I got mine from here http://www.hobbycnc.com/products/hobbycnc-pro-driver-board-packages/. There are some instructions on instructables on how to make your own CNC driver cicuits too. I also found some places on E-bay that sell assembled kits for these same functions. Probably would've been a better way to go since it would've save a lot of soldering.

An interesting note about machining aluminum is that it is actually similar to machining wood. There are bits designed to cut aluminum and those are good bits to use on wood too.

Andy

LaughingCheese wrote:
danipe70 wrote:
Hi LaughingCheese, in my homemade cnc, I used an inteface from de page

http://www.esteca55.com.ar/proyectos.html

and the drivers are based in the C.I. SLA7260 (look in the web)

and trey work very good.


Cool, I'll look into it, thanks.

Quote:
You donīt need a controller. You need a computer and a LPT1 port, and programs like mach3 or Kcam to control de motors.


Cool. LPT1 port may be an issue tho. I suppose I could rip one off my old computer. :p

Anyway, I'm planning on building this CNC machine, except slightly larger:

Easy-to-Build-Desk-Top 3 Axis Mini CNC

And I'm going with this software:

EMC2


Trying to be as cost efficient as possible here. I don't need something too large, just like a 48" x 48 " cutting area. That's probably too big too, since I just need enough space to cut molds of body parts (head, hands, legs, etc.).
[url][/url]


A few of those projects suggest using stepper motors from old printers and scanners.

Would these be sufficient for cutting foam and soft plastic, maybe even MDF?

And yeah, I probably don't need 48" x 48" (4' square!) either, I'm basically cutting the same stuff as you are, armor parts, and maybe parts for RC airplanes and airsoft guns.
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Culvan
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Joined: 20 May 2008
Posts: 85
Location: Kansas City, MO

PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LaughingCheese wrote:

A few of those projects suggest using stepper motors from old printers and scanners.

Would these be sufficient for cutting foam and soft plastic, maybe even MDF?

And yeah, I probably don't need 48" x 48" (4' square!) either, I'm basically cutting the same stuff as you are, armor parts, and maybe parts for RC airplanes and airsoft guns.


I don't know the answers to the questions you have. You might look for answers on CNCzone's forums. I can say that I harvested a few printer stepper motors and they are much smaller than the ones I bought. There are many factors to consider, the resistance of the tool cutting a material is significant, but so is the amount of mass you are moving. I know printer steppers can drive small machines, but I'm not sure about the bigger ones like you are talking about.

I tested my system out and found the fastest speed it could move the machine. That was dependant on the stepper motors and the current available through the driver circuitry. If you have smaller motors and less powerfull driver circuitry then you will be forced to run the machine slower. You will probably still be able to make it cut through all of the materials you have listed. However, it might be unbearably slow.

If the scrap printers are free then it doesn't hurt to start going that way. You can upgrade the motors later if you are not happy with the performance. Just keep in mind that you are likely to want to. (so leave a little extra space around your motor mounts.)

Andy
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