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Best way to make molds for clear vacuum forms

 
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mysterio6_9



Joined: 11 Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Location: Duffield

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 6:13 pm    Post subject: Best way to make molds for clear vacuum forms Reply with quote

I am making molds using wood for vacuforming. And I was wondering if there was a good way to make the surface of the mold smooth for making a visor. I am using petg plastic in my vacuformer, any suggestions.

I was thinking of using a gloss Finnish lacquer over the finished mold, but I am worried the hot plastic might stick to the lacquer.
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gellfex



Joined: 02 Nov 2010
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A satin finish will work if you're making clear parts, I used lacquer auto primer on
a MDF vacform pattern and it held up pretty well for 12 + pulls.
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jdougn
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Joined: 18 Mar 2009
Posts: 714
Location: Louisville KY area

PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:11 am    Post subject: Re: Best way to make molds for clear vacuum forms Reply with quote

mysterio6_9 wrote:
I am making molds using wood for vacuforming. And I was wondering if there was a good way to make the surface of the mold smooth for making a visor. I am using petg plastic in my vacuformer, any suggestions.

I was thinking of using a gloss Finnish lacquer over the finished mold, but I am worried the hot plastic might stick to the lacquer.


I have not done this myself, but I believe that attaching felt to the mold will provide a nice clean surface. At least in my experience, woodworking lacquer does stick to hot plastic. Might try PMing Spektr since he does a lot of clear stuff.
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Last edited by jdougn on Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:54 pm; edited 1 time in total
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spektr
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Joined: 07 Jan 2008
Posts: 425

PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PETG is one of my favorite materials..... For good
optical quality, I use polished cast aluminum tools,
or epoxy. Service life of the tool vs cost makes
the decision for you......

I bet you could do it with wood and spraypaints,
but I seriously doubt oyou'd get decent optics consistantly.
When I was too cheap to do tools the right way and
could get away with low quality tools like that,
the parts suffered..........
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gellfex



Joined: 02 Nov 2010
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spektr is correct about having good tooling, but for a few pulls
wood and lacquer works.

jdougn, I use auto lacquer primer, the stuff you get from a autobody
paint shop, takes heat very well and doesn't stick, possibly because
of the talc that's in it, clear wood working lacquer doesn't have the
cajones for that kind of heat. Two stage lacquers might be usable.
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mysterio6_9



Joined: 11 Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Location: Duffield

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:13 pm    Post subject: Thanks Reply with quote

Thanks for all the help, I ended up using wood with lacquer, made a clearer pull then the first one with out Lacquer. It's only one visor I am making for a costume of snake eyes from g.i. Joe retaliation. A little of the lacquer came off with the pull but not supper noticble. I will use the automotive lacquer next time.
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jdougn
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Joined: 18 Mar 2009
Posts: 714
Location: Louisville KY area

PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:14 am    Post subject: Re: Thanks Reply with quote

mysterio6_9 wrote:
Thanks for all the help, I ended up using wood with lacquer, made a clearer pull then the first one with out Lacquer. It's only one visor I am making for a costume of snake eyes from g.i. Joe retaliation. A little of the lacquer came off with the pull but not supper noticble. I will use the automotive lacquer next time.


Great update! Thanks for sharing that the auto lacquer worked out. That's something I'll have to remember.
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spektr
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Joined: 07 Jan 2008
Posts: 425

PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can probably clean the lacquer off the petg with VPM Naptha....
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