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www.TK560.com Vacuum Forming, Movie Prop, Sci-fi and GIjOE Forum
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jegner Site Admin
Joined: 30 May 2003 Posts: 2144 Location: Texas, USA
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 8:56 am Post subject: NOVEMBER: Tip of the Month |
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Wash your resin parts before painting.
This past Thanksgiving weekend, I was working on some resin parts for an upcoming Endor Command blaster. I was in a rush, so I started painting on the resin parts. A batch that had just come out of the molds. Sadly, the primer did not stick well, and bubbled up in spots. It took several extra coats, and some sanding in between the coats to fix a problem that should never have happened. Lesson learned, wash your resin parts.
Many of these resin parts you buy online are produced in very limited runs, and the caster wants maximum life from his expensive silicone molds so he like I, uses a mold release. These are usually wax based and wash off with dishwashing detergent and warm water. Be sure to dry your parts well, usually several hours before painting. |
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TK 109 Guru
Joined: 11 May 2007 Posts: 712 Location: Galena, Ohio
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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yeah, i agree. when i put on my resin parts for my kenner e-11 blaster, the parts were sanded a little, and whiped off. i have some "blubbling" on my parts, so it kinda looks a bit like a hammered finish.
cheack out the counter box and magazine housing in this shot:
when i initially put on a thin coat, some little spots didn't tke the paint well, but then i thinckened-up the layer, and it was ok. when i painted my new barrel tip black, at first most of the paint dripped off like water. it was the wierest thing. so, i scrubbed off the paint, roughed-up the surface, and WASHED, and the next attempt was perfect.
so i agree, wash and sand the part(s) before priming/painting! _________________ -Alex
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Katachi Newbie
Joined: 27 Dec 2007 Posts: 17 Location: Madison, WI
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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TK 109 wrote: | yeah, i agree. when i put on my resin parts for my kenner e-11 blaster, the parts were sanded a little, and whiped off. i have some "blubbling" on my parts, so it kinda looks a bit like a hammered finish.
when i initially put on a thin coat, some little spots didn't tke the paint well, but then i thinckened-up the layer, and it was ok. when i painted my new barrel tip black, at first most of the paint dripped off like water. it was the wierest thing. so, i scrubbed off the paint, roughed-up the surface, and WASHED, and the next attempt was perfect.
so i agree, wash and sand the part(s) before priming/painting! |
I used to get this problem a lot on resin cast parts using Smooth On's UMR as a mold release. If you don't clean your parts properly, you get some nasty fisheyes, especially with metallic paints. With UMR, you need to clean your parts with Acetone. Not soap and water, not paint thinner, not mineral spirits. Acetone. My process for a couple years used to consist of casing a resin positive, scrubbing with hot soapy water, wiping with paint thinner, sanding the surface with a high grit paper (which got off most of the UMR, I'd imagine) and then using an auto grade primer and STILL having fisheyes and paint flake off. I even tried using spray adhesion promoters. They work, but leave an undesirably rough surface.
If you're buying resin cast parts and you don't know what was used for a mold release, try the soapy water, let it dry, wipe it down with an acetone soaked paper towel, chamois/tack cloth it off and spray a test spot and see what happens. |
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TK 109 Guru
Joined: 11 May 2007 Posts: 712 Location: Galena, Ohio
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Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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hmm...
ok, that actually makes sense! thanks katachi!
_________________ -Alex
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