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www.TK560.com Vacuum Forming, Movie Prop, Sci-fi and GIjOE Forum
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AlterEgos Expert
Joined: 30 May 2006 Posts: 115 Location: Centreville, VA
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:50 am Post subject: Best plastic and vendor for transparent colors? |
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I'm looking to vacuform some lenses and other things that require opaque and transparent colors, but haven't been able to find a good source for colored .060 or .080 plastic online.
What I need are a variety of colors and also advice on the best kind of transparent plastic to use for lenses and visors.
For visors, I've used PETG before, but can't seem to find it in any color except clear. I hear that other people have used acrylic and/or plexiglass, but I'm not to sure if my 5.0 hp ShopVac can pull that kind of stuff.
For the opaque colored items, I'd prefer styrene or something that is easy to pull without a vac-pump. I've heard of people using Kydex, but I don't really know how well it actually works.
Any thoughts? _________________ -John |
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spektr Master
Joined: 07 Jan 2008 Posts: 425
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:53 am Post subject: Keep it simple...... |
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Dont beat it to death. if you are making visors, colored acrylic is available from almost anybody in a vast array of colors. IIWU, I'd be drape forming them instead of vaccuuming them. Eliminate the markoff issues, lack of forming headaches etc. Make a form, cover it in flannel, drop the acrylic on it and smooth it by hand wearing fuzzy cotton chore gloves. Piece of cake. I make LOTS of stuff this way from motorcycle windshields to helmet visors. You can get 3D and compound contoured parts this way. YMMV but I doubt by much. Keep it simple and remember that just because you CAN vac form doesn't always mean you NEED to vac form......... Scott. |
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AlterEgos Expert
Joined: 30 May 2006 Posts: 115 Location: Centreville, VA
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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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I understand what you're saying, but does drape forming work for small complex shapes or bucks with many angles?
For example, if I were to do a series of 1"x2" boxed shaped buttons (about 1/2" high) or a 6" high dome with a repeated hexagon pattern on it, would drape forming even be a possiblity? If so, could I heat the acrylic on the oven of my vac machine or would I need some other way of heating it? _________________ -John |
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thebluecanary Expert
Joined: 02 Feb 2006 Posts: 123 Location: St. Louis, MO
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Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:38 am Post subject: |
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AlterEgos wrote: | I understand what you're saying, but does drape forming work for small complex shapes or bucks with many angles?
For example, if I were to do a series of 1"x2" boxed shaped buttons (about 1/2" high) or a 6" high dome with a repeated hexagon pattern on it, would drape forming even be a possiblity? If so, could I heat the acrylic on the oven of my vac machine or would I need some other way of heating it? |
Why do forming? If they are so small, why not just do a casting? You can make one cast, and then remake as many as you like. |
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AlterEgos Expert
Joined: 30 May 2006 Posts: 115 Location: Centreville, VA
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Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 12:10 am Post subject: |
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Quote: | Why do forming? If they are so small, why not just do a casting? You can make one cast, and then remake as many as you like. |
Well, forming is a lot cheaper and less time consuming, since I'll be making at least 20 per run. Also, resin is not as forgiving (air bubbles tend to ruin a piece) and break or chip if dropped.
Still, I suppose I could cast the buttons and lenses if worse comes to worse, but casting isn't an option for the transparent domes and visors I need to make. _________________ -John |
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thebluecanary Expert
Joined: 02 Feb 2006 Posts: 123 Location: St. Louis, MO
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Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:06 am Post subject: |
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AlterEgos wrote: | Quote: | Why do forming? If they are so small, why not just do a casting? You can make one cast, and then remake as many as you like. |
Well, forming is a lot cheaper and less time consuming, since I'll be making at least 20 per run. Also, resin is not as forgiving (air bubbles tend to ruin a piece) and break or chip if dropped.
Still, I suppose I could cast the buttons and lenses if worse comes to worse, but casting isn't an option for the transparent domes and visors I need to make. |
Ture about the visor. You know you could always just get clear plastic and add tint to it yourself. Either film or some kind of wash. There are a million products out there at will add color to plastic for tinting. I think Jim(?) did that for the X-Wing pilot helmet. |
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AlterEgos Expert
Joined: 30 May 2006 Posts: 115 Location: Centreville, VA
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Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:31 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | You know you could always just get clear plastic and add tint to it yourself. |
Yep, I've tried a few different ways of DIY tinting, but there's plenty of room for error in doing it that way. Not to mention that film doesn't work on extreme convex/concave shapes and painted/dyed tints either pool up or cover unevenly.
Oh well, I guess I'll just have to invest a bunch of time and money into experimenting with different materials from many manufacturers to find what works best for my purposes. But thanks to everyone for the suggestions. _________________ -John |
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jegner Site Admin
Joined: 30 May 2003 Posts: 2144 Location: Texas, USA
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Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, I did tint spme PETG using a warm water wash of RIT dye for a test of the X-wing visors. Worked like a charm! I even did some test with PETG for the RFT visors, with black, but learned that RIT uses different dye lots so the color did not match from one batch to the next. Still took the color great!
Jim |
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