www.TK560.com

[jdougn]

Hey Israel, great to hear you've found a source for the carbon vanes. Hopefully that will get your pump working perfectly.

The two stage plumbing system works great for me and I like being able to shut off the tank and let the pump do the final work of pulling details into the plastic. Also, it looks like your existing tank should be big enough for a 2' x 2' vac table especially since you have a good vac pump.
hth, DougN
_________________
DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions.

[Israel franco]

yahooo!!!!! thats a god news for me!!! thanks DougN, i will start with the plumbing in the old machine for test

[Israel franco]

hello friends I have news. the carbon vanes arrived and i already installed on the pump, the pump now works, and this is what makes the pump:

when I turn it on, immediately starts to suck air through one of the glass jars and blows air on the other, (but the force it has is little) I connect the hose from the glass jar, which pulls air into the tank , after a few seconds I hear the engine speed slow down , if I close the tank outlet valve, the speed drops further as time passes, and when I open the valve again, the engine speed rises again, if the valve is closed after of more or less a minute, the vacuum pump shuts off by itself, after that if I open the valve, a suction feel more stronge, but I still think it is a small force of the vacuum

I wonder if all the vacuum pumps, behave this way?

the vacuum pump does not have a vacuum gauge so not certain whether this reaching 26inhg

I had only worked with shop vac, so I'm not sure that the pump works well, as i said the pump are already sucking air, but I think the amount of the air flow is significantly lower than that felt with the shop vac, doug you tell me that this is normal, but at first glance it would appear that a shop vac does a better job than the vacuum pump, may be because I thought that putting my hand and feel the suction, would be far greater than that felt with the shop vac (someone thought of this too, before making a real test?)

doug in your experience.... then the feeling of suction, is much greater with a vacuum cleaner even if it is from the tank? or will the pump still does not work well?

I worry that not enough for good detail on the pieces

I did a drawing of the connections, I hope you can tell me if this would work and also know if I can make connections with hoses, or is it better to use metal tubes?



thanks again

[jdougn]

Hey Israel,

The shop vac will move a lot of air very quickly but does not have much total force. The vacuum pump will not move nearly as much air but should have much greater total force. That is why your vac pump has a tank attached. Consider getting a gauge for the vac pump to determine if the pump is working properly.

hth, DougN
_________________
DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions.

[Israel franco]

thank again doug My concern about this is that when I turn on the vacuum pump, i only gota very poor suction (even less than when a baby sucking on a straw )

I spent all day watching the vacuum pump wondering what might be going wrong, and i discovered a sticker on the engine, which reads:



for low voltage wires placed one way, and for high voltage differently, research on the net and I realized that there are engines that can work under different voltages, but you have to change the configuration of the cables, then decided to change, they were placed in the high-voltage configuration, and i switch for low-voltage.... i turned on the vacuum pump and ........... Surprise!! the engine ran smoother and with much more force, as well the suction increased by much (it feels a bit more like a shop vac) so I think that was the problem, including the engine heats up much less

Doug, i already searching for a supplier for the vacuum gauge (I hope to find soon) , to know exactly the vacuum that the pump is generating but now I'm more happy with the airflow (both suction and blowing)........... finally i feel the power yeha!!!

by the way, can i make connections with hoses or necessarily i have to use pipes ??

thanks

[jdougn]

Israel, it is a good thing you figured out how to correct the wiring on the motor! And good to hear the vac pump is now running better.

Most commonly available hose will not work with the vacuum pump. The force of the vacuum will collapse most hose. I have found that if you can change the shape of the hose by squeezing between your fingers then it will not work with vacuum. The hose must be rated for suction or full vacuum. For example, a regular shop vac hose can be smashed between your fingers so it will not work. It will collapse under full vacuum. If you're not sure if a hose will work then just get a foot or two and test it with your vacuum pump. I use some flexible hose on my vac former. The hose is rated for agricultural water pumps.

Any rigid pipe that is used for water supply plumbing should work fine for vacuum. If the rigid pipe is rated for water pressure than it will work with vacuum. Just make sure to seal any threads real well since vacuum leaks very easy.

hth, DougN
_________________
DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions.

[Israel franco]

hi doug ok then I was thinking in use the hoses used in gas instalation like these:

or these:


these hoses are reinforced with metal, I hope that work.... as soon I make a test, i told you if it worked.

also i want to use a quick disconnects form the platen, because I like to make 2 or 3 platens and holding frames in different sizes (for smaller or larger pieces without so much waste of plastic) so I can switch between them more easily

I read that drcrash not recommended for use with shop vacs, but also said that with the vacuum pump could operate, what do you thing?

about the connections I realized that the tank I have, has an input and output holes, and in most of the diagrams I've seen here (special thanks to drcrash for their valuable contribution in this subject) the tanks use the same duct to empty and sucking, then it is advisable to cancel the exit of the tank and only used as input / output a single channel?

otherwise i need to put an extra valve to close the tank,and prevent the suction is lost while the pump is trying to empty the tank again right?

someting like this:


which would be the best option for the plumbing? close the exit in the tank or placing third valve?

thanks again and sorry for asking so many questions (I know nothing about the system of vacuum pumps )

I hope to finish the plumbing this weekend to show you some pictures

[Israel franco]

I almost forgot, I have been looking for a supplier of vacuum gauges but i dont found yet, could i use a pressure gauge to measure vacuum (like those used in compressors?

someone has tried?

[jdougn]

[jdougn]

[jdougn]

[Israel franco]

[Israel franco]

ok i like to show you a diagram of the plumbing that i have rigth now:




and in these i like to show you how i figured trurn the 3/8" plumbing to 1"



what do you think?

[stormtrooperguy]

using 1/2" at the platen seems like it could be a problem. that's the spot where you'd want the most air rushing through. cutting your pipe in 1/2 there doesn't sound right.

is there any way you can replace the 1/2" connection on the platen with 1"?

[spektr]

this will probably be ok for thin stuff, but I think you will be hard pressed to move a lot of air fast enough to do thicker faster setting plastic. I suggest using as much large diameter stuff you can, and for gods sake, get rid of the small bore quick disconnects. Remember pressure and vacuum are very different in flow. Vacuum is much more sensitive to the wrong cross sections and obstructions.