www.TK560.com

[stormtrooperguy]

Hello all!

I see a bunch of familiar "faces" here, so I know I'm in good company!

Over the last year I've gotten into making my own armor. I've been using a friend's shop out in Lunenburg MA (about 45 min from my house in good traffic). Now that I've gotten the hang of the process in general, I feel like I'm ready to set up my own system.

I've been using an electric oven / shop vac based system to pull 0.125 HIPS. It works out pretty well, but the cycle time is slooooow... for the really deep pulls (about 10" tall), I have to cook the plastic for around 12 - 14 minutes before it really works properly. Part of that is that since the oven isn't as deep as it is wide, the plastic sticks out. We have to rotate the sheet 180 degrees 3-4 times throughout to get the heat even.

Originally I was going to build out a system like that, but as with everything I do, it snowballed.

First step: power at home. We had a 100amp service with a TINY, full breaker box. Thanks to the nice electrician it's now 200 amps with the biggest box any house should ever have (Fett helmet shown for scale)



Second step: finishing the basement workshop to make it nicer to spend time in (see the theme? snowballs? never do anything easy?).





The ceiling height sort of stinks... it's only about 6 foot 4 or so. But, it is what it is. I have a garage shop too, but it's only got 20 amps of power coming in and getting more in there would be a nightmare: concrete walls, paved patio in between the house and it, etc...

Anyway, I'm sure I can make the height work.

Step 1 and 2 took the better part of a year. After that it should go quick.

I've ordered the proto-form plans and the 2x2 heating kit. They are on their way now. I like the over/under style since some of my bucks are pretty tall. I think that for what I'm doing, flip-flop would be awkward.

I scored nicely on wiring... I got 50' of 6-3 Romex for free from a supply house that a friend works at. I figure I'll do a 40 amp / 220 volt circuit for the heater. I may want to go up from 2x2 at some point, so having more juice than I need now seems like a good idea.

For the vacuum I've got a Gast 0823. It was advertised as a 1023, but wasn't. From the specs it looks like it's a difference of 0.5CFM free air flow @ 25" on the 0823 vs. 0.8CFM @ 25" on the 1023. I'm hoping that won't be a huge problem for me. I only paid $100 for it, so it was a good deal no matter what. If I've been working successfully on a shop vac, I'm guessing I'll be fine.



I don't have welding experience myself, but I'm planning to rend a FCAW welder for a day and try my luck. If I'm terrible at it, I've got a plan B lined up... a 501st recruit who will trade an armor kit for welding services!

So now I'm at the part that I REALLY hate... waiting! Can't do much of anything until the plans arrive.

In the mean time, I do have a question:

What do you think the smallest (physically) tank I could use for the vacuum would be? I've allowed space in my plans for a 30 gallon hot water heater, but I'd LOVE to use something a bit smaller.

Would 20lb. propane tanks be of any use? I've got a couple that are in good condition but have the old valves that are no longer refillable.

[TD1035]

Enjoy the build!!! I'm sure once you get Doug's plans everything will make much more sense. There is a table in the plans that explains pumps and tank sizes so all your questions will be answered soon .

If you ever have any questions once you start the build, Doug is a wealth of knowledge and very happy to share. I can't say enough about how impressed I am with his Protoform plans!!!!!

Todd
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"If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space!"

[stormtrooperguy]

I got the shipping confirmation email on my heater / plans today. Mmmm, soon! Soon there will be tasty hot plastic in my basement!

[DarthVader1]

Hey, welcome Brian, my fellow TDH brother. Nice to see you around here as well. With your knowledge and reputation... I believe that we could learn a thing or two FROM YOU in one way or the other.
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Robert
BH/TK/TB/TS 060

[stormtrooperguy]

Thanks for the vote of confidence! I got the plans last night. After reading through the 111 page manual (twice!) I'm feeling better. I just put in the order with FedEx Kinkos to print out a nice, bound copy of the guide. I pick that up in a couple of hours.

On the note of power...

I've already got 1 30 amp, 220 volt appliance outlet and 2 15 amp, 110 volt circuits right where the table is going.

The appliance outlet is wired with 8-3, so I could go up to 40 amp on the breaker safely.

That should be enough power for everything, so rather than following the plans exactly and putting a sub panel on the table, I'll probably use the existing wiring. That's not a huge variation... it's basically on the way back back end of the system.

I'm thinking that I'll wire up the table with a dryer cord so that I can plug in to the outlet that's there, but we'll see.

Any thoughts on that from those that have been down this road before?

Otherwise, I think I'll be OK, assuming I can learn to weld well enough to get through it. If not, I've got someone who has offered to do the welding for me.

I'm planning to to a lot of the fabrication in my garage since it's big and concrete. I like working in a room I can't set on fire as easily

[stormtrooperguy]

i just got back from kinko's. the printing was cheaper than i thought... about $35 for the assembly guide (double sided, bound with cardstock covers), and all of the drawings... 24x36, 11x17 and 8.5x11.

[stormtrooperguy]

...and almost $200 later, grainger will be sending me all sorts of electrical and plumbing parts.

[jdougn]

I used a heavy gauge "extension" dryer cord for my 2'x4' ProtoForm style vac former and really like it. I also included the 110v subsystem that powers the pump and will power fans in the future. It's great to be able to unplug the entire system and not worry about any component of the vac former being electrically activated when I'm not around. If someone accidently bumps a switch nothing will happen! You're off to a great start and looks like you already do great work!
DougN
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DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions.

[stormtrooperguy]

Chugging along! The mobile cart is done. I think that the whole setup is too tall for my work area... I may need to shorten it a bit to give enough clearance over the top of the heater.

The Grainger parts are here. The McMaster-Carr ones are still on the way.

I'm following up a couple of good leads on metal fabrication, so I'm hoping to have that underway ASAP.

[jegner]

Glad you are documenting your process. Keep us posted!

[stormtrooperguy]

today i got the oven kit and the contactor. i also got the wire for the oven power. almost done with parts collecting!! all i need now is the rest of my mcmaster-carr order, the pilot lights, vac tank, and misc hardware store bits.

i'm hoping by the end of the week to have everything in house for the build, then i can start working!

i should post some pics of the mobile cart before i sand / stain it.

[stormtrooperguy]

too many words, not enough pictures!

here's the cart:


i'm pretty sure i'm going to have to shorten this. i measured things out and there would only be a couple of inches clearance from my looooow ceiling. i'm not going to go tweaking based on what i think the measurements will be... i'll wait for the welded bits to be finished.

you can also see the vac pump on there. it's mounted to a plywood base, but it's pretty big. i'm planning on having 2 10 gallon tanks, so fitting it will be special. i'm thinking i may extend the lower shelf out, make it wider. i left the upper shelf off since i'm probably lowering the table. lots of variables right now.



the oven box. i built that tonight, just so i could feel like i did something other than buy a ton of stuff! still have to assemble the panels, but the frame is nice and solid.



that's just about everything from the parts list, and some extras.

i still need the pilot lights, but that's about it.

i'm doing the wiring a bit differently than plan, based on what i had readily available and the space i'm working in.

running a 70amp line over to the other side of the house from the supply panel would require heavier gauge wire, which is more expensive and harder to work with.

i already have 3 dedicated circuits along the wall the table is going against, so i don't need to add anything other than the oven power.

sticking to a 30 amp circuit lets me use a 30amp outlet / cord. i want to make this detachable from the wall without having to throw any breakers. for some reason i just like the idea of unplugging it if it's not in use.

i'm running slightly heavier wire for the outlet than i need, just in case. i'm using 8-3, when 10-3 would be fine for a 30. but, that way i can go up if i need to later.

i picked up a dryer power cord and outlet to round that all out.

also, based on the newer heating plan recommendation, i got a timer for the oven switch. instead of on/off, it's "on for 10 minutes" or "on for 5 minutes". this is a safety feature, to prevent you from accidentally leaving the oven on.

rather than the mechanical one from the plans, i got a digital one. part because that's what was in stock, and part because it's neat looking

so for acquisition i still need the pilot lights, air tanks, and steel tubing / fabrication. but, i'm almost there!

[stormtrooperguy]

Busy busy.

The 30amp / 220 outlet is in place for the heater.

I've got the platen almost done. I ended up not following the protoform plans here... For a variety of reasons I'm going with a plywood platen instead of the metal one in the plans. Same dimensions, different materials.

The short version of the rationale is that a well made plywood one will likely be better than a poorly made metal. Since my metal working skills/tools are essentially non existent, I'm sticking with what I know. If it doesn't work out I can change it, but like I said... I've been working on an 8+ year old plywood box platen with no complaints.

I used 3-4 coats of shellac on the inside of the assembly, and have not been shy about the silicone. I'm thinking I'll be able to hold enough vacuum to do the job. At most I'll be pulling 0.125 HIPS, so it's not like I'm going for anything demanding.

Word is the steel parts might be done this weekend. Here's hoping!

I'm not stretching the nichrome coils until I can mount the whole heater box... I don't want it to be sitting around getting banged up once its built.

My air tanks are on the way. Once they come I can do the vacuum lines.

I *think* I'm done with buying parts... I'm sure there will be some minor stuff to pick up, but the bulk of the spending is done. I've gotten some really good deals, so I'd say I'm probably in it for around $800 - $900 at this point. Not bad at all considering that includes the Gast pump.

[jdougn]

You're doing a great job making logical choices on your vac former! You're right to be careful with the nichrome wire since it can get messed up if something snags it. When I first started using cabinet grade plywood platens the first one built was vacuum & pressure tested before any vac holes were drilled. Never had a problem with it. Then, as Spekter recommends, it's easy to build platens dedicated to a specific mold if they are high use. Thanks for posting up, especially the picts!
DougN
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DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions.

[kayaker43]

Nice progress so far,...

A final test of the platen would be to cover all the holes with a piece of contact paper (shelf liner) Its cheap, easy to remove and creates a 100% seal. Then connect your pump directly to the platen with an inline gauge and run it.

Now run the vacuum pump with only the gauge connected to it. This will show your true max pump reading. Compare the two and you will be surprised how much less you get when connected to the wood platen. This is due to leakage and even a pinhole will reduce the max reading a bunch.

No problem at all if using shop vacs, they have 20 times more flow than we need and leakage hardly matters. Also not much concern when using tanks, they can handle some leakage until the plastic cools.

However, even a pinhole will reduce the effects of a two stage system. If your pump can pull 26 inches, a tank system may finish of at 22-24. A two stage system with an airtight platen can finish off with no loss at all but you have to be fanatical and that means no wood (even sealed)exposed to vacuum.

I'm not against shortcuts and I think a tank system with sealed wood platen is adequate for most needs. I'm just reminding you that more forming power is available if you should need it later.
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Doug Walsh
www.build-stuff.com
Hobby-Vac and Proto-Form machine plans

Also other plans books and videos for people who like to build things