View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Fredo Master
Joined: 21 Mar 2007 Posts: 251 Location: Kingdom of Nye Area 51
|
Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 9:35 am Post subject: One mans solution to trimming |
|
|
Ran across this on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCl1cjCj0Ag&feature=related . You have to watch it a few times, it happens rather fast. I like that he uses compressed air, instead a router. It makes it so simple, no awkward counter weights. Trimming thicker plastics by hand is real pain. It's where the fun ends and the work begins.....................Fredo _________________ If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you,
it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun...The Dalai Lama..Seattle 2001 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
IMMark Expert
Joined: 18 Nov 2010 Posts: 189 Location: Columbus, Ohio
|
Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
That is awesome and very timely, I was looking for trimming ideas....thanks for posting!!!
Mark |
|
Back to top |
|
|
IMMark Expert
Joined: 18 Nov 2010 Posts: 189 Location: Columbus, Ohio
|
Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:52 am Post subject: |
|
|
Anyone have thoughts or suggestions on bit type/size and cutting speeds?
Mark |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Fredo Master
Joined: 21 Mar 2007 Posts: 251 Location: Kingdom of Nye Area 51
|
Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 8:21 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I bought the plans for the Copy Carver a few months ago. http://www.copycarver.com/uses.htm .... I've finished the swing box... I'm doing a drawer slide instead of the carriage type machine. If I had the money, and if it wasn't almost finished, I would switch to one of the linear slide duplicators. But, with that type build, price and difficulty go up.... The cost of the build was the determining factor for me.
I'm using a Roto-Zip for the router and a 1/8 rotozip bit. I've tested that bit and it cuts 1/8 abs fast. The bit might heat up with extended use. If that happens, I'll put the parts in the fridge and try cutting them cold. Anything to keep from trimming parts by hand..........Fredo _________________ If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you,
it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun...The Dalai Lama..Seattle 2001 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jdougn Guru
Joined: 18 Mar 2009 Posts: 714 Location: Louisville KY area
|
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 12:50 pm Post subject: use roto-zip drywall bits |
|
|
Looks like that setup works great for flat cut-outs.
On the router & bits, I use a small frame electric 1/4" trim router with a guide collar. The router collet has a roto-zip adapter to accept a 1/8" diameter roto-zip drywall bit. The bits are cheap, are "down cut" to throw chips away from the router and prevent loading, last a long time, and don't grab like larger diameter router bits. This setup is used to trim 3/16"-1/4" ABS and has not been tested on other materials.
dn _________________ DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
IMMark Expert
Joined: 18 Nov 2010 Posts: 189 Location: Columbus, Ohio
|
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 12:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks again Fredo and thanks DougN for the response.
I have a bunch of the Rotozip drywall cutters, most likely will give them a go.
Mark |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Fredo Master
Joined: 21 Mar 2007 Posts: 251 Location: Kingdom of Nye Area 51
|
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Duplicating molds in wood is another possible use for the machines. Some woods are said to give reasonable service life. Copying anything directly to a usable mold would eliminate several steps in the mold making process. Wood's not that expensive and ideally suited for short runs and proto-types....you could make a lot of molds in a day.. Drilling vent holes in wood is easy, and I'm all for easy......Fredo _________________ If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you,
it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun...The Dalai Lama..Seattle 2001 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jdougn Guru
Joined: 18 Mar 2009 Posts: 714 Location: Louisville KY area
|
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 7:19 am Post subject: |
|
|
Fredo wrote: | Duplicating molds in wood is another possible use for the machines. Some woods are said to give reasonable service life. Copying anything directly to a usable mold would eliminate several steps in the mold making process. Wood's not that expensive and ideally suited for short runs and proto-types....you could make a lot of molds in a day.. Drilling vent holes in wood is easy, and I'm all for easy......Fredo |
Just a suggestion, if the mold has multiple layers & directions consider using mahogany. Mahogany is the most dimensionally stable wood that is commonly available. Although a bit more expensive, it won't expand and contract nearly as much as woods like pine.
dn _________________ DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
spektr Master
Joined: 07 Jan 2008 Posts: 425
|
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 12:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The best patterning woods have historically been BASS and Jelutong... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jegner Site Admin
Joined: 30 May 2003 Posts: 2144 Location: Texas, USA
|
Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thats a pantograph machine, with a pneumatic dremel. Cool! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jay-J Newbie
Joined: 19 Jun 2011 Posts: 17 Location: US
|
Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 7:01 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Does anyone know of a good way to precision trim around a vertical edge? For example, lets say you just formed a rectangular box and you want to trim away the flat waste while keeping the trim line nice and flat? Router mounted horizontal maybe? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
IMMark Expert
Joined: 18 Nov 2010 Posts: 189 Location: Columbus, Ohio
|
Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 6:19 am Post subject: |
|
|
Not sure I understand ...but you might be able to build a jig, where the box would set on a square block of wood and run it through a table saw?
Other than that, something along the lines of the Yoytube video at the start of this thread?
Mark |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jay-J Newbie
Joined: 19 Jun 2011 Posts: 17 Location: US
|
Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 12:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I'll try to explain my question a little better. So what I'm trying to figure out is how people (or companies) go about trimming the excess or waste (whatever it's called) away from protruding parts they made. For example, back to the rectangle box. You load a sheet of plastic into your machine, place your rectangle mold on the platen, and then form the part. Now you're done. But you still need to trim away the flat border that is connected to your newly formed rectangle box. Not only do you want the flat excess removed but you also want the transition radius from vertical to horizontal removed as well. So when you flipped the rectangle box over (as to fill it with liquid), you would see a nice flat edge all the way around the top. (I'm using 3/16" thick material)
How would you do that in a very precise way? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
IMMark Expert
Joined: 18 Nov 2010 Posts: 189 Location: Columbus, Ohio
|
Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 1:01 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I am not sure how "precise" you need to be or if you are looking for production (multiple parts and repeatable). The table saw method I mentioned would accomplish that with a rectangle box, if you are working with circles or curves, I would say something along the lines of the video..with a jig and router, dremel, etc.
You could also look into laser cutters, even water jets, depending on part size and machine capacity.
Others may have more options.
Mark |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jay-J Newbie
Joined: 19 Jun 2011 Posts: 17 Location: US
|
Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 1:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks Mark, I think I'm going to experiment with a router and design a custom fixture/jig. I will be trimming circles and other shapes too so I need a system that will accommodate those as well. My intention is production so yeah, multiple and repeatable parts. As far as how precise, I would like to be at least with in a 1/16", preferably no more than a 1/32" variance. Not terribly precise but enough that costumers are not complaining and the parts look good and professional.
On a side note, I finished building my 2'x4' protoform so I'll post a thread with some pics on that soon.
Thanks for your input |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|