www.TK560.com Forum Index www.TK560.com
Vacuum Forming, Movie Prop, Sci-fi and GIjOE Forum
 
Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages

Log inLog in  RegisterRegister


Profile  Search  Memberlist  FAQ  Usergroups
My 2x3 Vacuum Former Build ( story, pics and Questions ? )
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    www.TK560.com Forum Index -> Vacuum Forming & General Stuff
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
RobL
Newbie


Joined: 19 Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 11:04 am    Post subject: My 2x3 Vacuum Former Build ( story, pics and Questions ? ) Reply with quote

Many thanks to everyone on this forum for their awesome vac-former builds and all the help and info shared, can't imagine how I would of got this far otherwise.

So my build is kinda' based on a Proto-form machine, but I used slightly different materials and setups. In hindsight, I would definitely buy Doug's plans just for reference details and overall help. I didn't have access to a welder, and did most of my material sourcing at a local scrap yard type business, so I had to make design changes....which perhaps might of saved me dollars, but definitely cost me time.

I was in a slight quandary from not having access to a welder, and while contemplating what hoops I would jump through to get one, I stopped by my local scrap collector and found some interesting aluminum extrusions. They were big n' bulky, like really large picture frames, apparently used for walls in office cubicles, I bought almost all of them for $80. So the first pic is my piles of aluminum extrusions and tupperware full of hardware. I then sold about 1/3 of the aluminum legs, steel supports, etc to the scrap dude and got almost half my money back.

The issue I had with these was cutting them, how to do it? Given the amount to be cut, a hacksaw was insanity, a bandsaw would be great but didn't have one, the only thing I had was my brother's 10" miter saw...but what blade? From a bunch of interwebs research, the proper blade is a high tooth count ( 60 - 80 ) carbide blade, with no "hook angle" or even a negative hook angle. I did not use that, I used the wrong blade (?)....I read so many conflicting reviews that I ended up at Harbor Freight with a $25 60 tooth carbide blade for wood. Looks like the only difference was the medium hook angle, I did use WD40 as a lube and went slow, so in the end, my cuts came out great. So take from that what you will.

Hindsight: I should of just bought the proper blade for peace of mind.

[/img]

So with the supplied hardware and aluminum, pics from the forum, I put together this frame.



One of the things I really liked about the builds done here was the changeable platens and frames, so I incorporated that into my build. The smaller frame/platen is roughly 14" x 26" and the outer frame/large platen is 24" x 36". I bolted 4 pieces of aluminum flat stock to the top of the inner frame, and that is clamped in place with the outer frame clamps, ( 3 of the flat stock pieces can be seen in the pic below.)



I wasn't sure how everyone else did it, but to make the hose connection to the platen removable, I did some digging around Home Depot and found 1" PVC unions, which have an internal O-ring and seem to work ok thus far. WARNING: I have found that although they may have the same part number and size rating, not all unions are actually sized the same...even from the same brand, ( hell, they're prob and outsource item that changed Asian companies and this is what you get type of thing.) I bought a union from one Home Depot, then picked up another union from a different Home Depot and they were 1/8" different in thread diameter, the internal 1" diameter was the same, just the actual connection/thread was a different diameter. So, I went back to the 1st Home Depot and bought a couple more ( for future use or platen builds...) that were the same size.

The hose I used is the braided, reinforced PVC that I picked up from Menards and Ace Hardware.



I can't find pics of the smaller platen drill insanity, so this is a pic of the larger platen top plate. The aluminum plate is another scrap yard score, I found two 6' x 4' .110" thick, 6061 grade Alcoa sheets for $35 each. They had some miscellaneous holes in them and needed to be cleaned, but I couldn't pass it up.

My first attempt at building a platen was a disaster, my plan was to use the alum. top plate with folded edges - steel grill section - bottom flat alum. plate style platen. That plan quickly changed after a couple hours of beating the edges of this alum. plate like a madman and getting no where, or actually taking steps back as I have now turned a beautiful piece of aluminum plate into a lumpy, curved, unusable mess. Sorry, no pics of this...too embarrassing, but I did find a use for it....tool tray.

I quickly blame my technique despite using the typical 2x4 and clamps method, and perhaps 6061 is just the wrong grade to form this way at .110" thickness...??? I did try heating it, but in a 35 degree garage, I was getting no where fast.

So, I used the bottom piece I already cut out, and made the bottom of the platen from MDF. I used 3/4" for the base, and made the support boarder and interior supports out of 1/4". I probably could of used 1/8" as the boarder/supports but didn't see it on the shelf. I primed and painted it inside and out, and silicone the alum. plate to it. As far as drilling hundreds of 1/8" holes...I drew sections on the plate and did 1 section a day...so, overall, it took 3 - 4 days of drilling a little at a time to get it done. That was a perfect time to catch up on some podcasts.





Another area I was stumped about was the slides. It looks like the Proto Form uses furniture style plastic foot slides (?) and being that I was using aluminum, I just wasn't sure how that would last. So, I hacked together a setup that uses 10mm ball bearings that mimics a linear slide ball bearing. It is not pretty, but works decent...so for now, I'm running with it. I don't have any good pics, but if anyone wants me to post one, I will.

For the vacuum side, I went with more Harbor Freight supplies, a couple air tanks for 22 gal of vac. storage, a 3cfm A/C vac. pump, and the 3 ball valves. It was all either on sale or I used a 25% coupon, so not a bad deal. For the vac. pump...it does produce an oil mist..so I found a dude on youtube that used an automotive oil filter ( must not have an anti-drain back valve) which kinda' works but needs refinement. I will probably add a couple 90' bends to help the oil drop out. I also used an automotive fuel filter in the vac line going from the tanks/plumbing to the pump for not other reason than precaution of sucking anything into my pump.

[img]http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a509/RobL313/RobsVacuumFormer_248_zps45d1bf2f.jpg [/img]

Here's a pic of the finished vac former.



The heater....this was and is my biggest obstacle, as like many others, I'm hamstrung by 110v outlets. Once again, I saw a couple dudes on youtube using quartz patio heaters to heat their materials, etc, so that is what I'm using thus far. I built the box from 1/8" mdf and lined it with alum. foil and alum. tape. During my test runs, the ouside of the box was cool to touch so seems to kinda' work so far.





I have some questions, but I'm holding them for the end of this build post. The pic below is for reference...I experienced some "even heating" issues and tried a trimmed down sheet of alum in this shape. It did help, but also caused an obvious lack of heating in the center. It needs to be trimmed more or just redesigned, but more on that later.



If you can make it out, I used an "elbow latch" on each side of the frame, with a couple bicycle cables to actuate them. I This is what holds my frame up to the heater box. I drilled a step into 4 fittings from 3/16" brake line as holders for the brake cables, then drilled/tapped the 90' alum. elbows so I could adjust the height if necessary.



Here is a pic of one of my test runs.





I think that about sums up the build stuff, sorry if I've skipped anything, I didn't want to make this too long and bore anyone.
_________________
generalleerc.com

I love the internet....helping the ignorant and uneducated like myself get a little less dumb, one post at a time....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
RobL
Newbie


Joined: 19 Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 11:55 am    Post subject: QUESTIONS ? Reply with quote

So, my whole reason for building this machine is to make my own rc car bodies, etc. In my journey, specifically at a local plastic supplier, I wanted to buy Lexan, but he steered me towards PETG. He seemed pretty convinced this was the way to go, and I was 100% ignorant, so I bought $20 worth to experiment with and away I went.

4 months and lots' more research later, I'm thinking PETG is not the way to go due to paint and durability. From what I gather, PETG is great for cockpit canopies or pieces that will remain clear, etc. but unless you use a specific water based paint, typical polycarb. paint weakens PETG so on impact it shatters like glass. Also, it's just not as strong/durable...so for a whole rc car body, it's just not gonna work. (If you've seen my videos, you'll know what I mean, lol.)

I'm also aware of the hygroscopic nature of polycarb, but for test runs, I just need to see if my machine can even make a pull before I build drying boxes..etc.

The test pulls in the above post are with PETG, which came out ok, definitely needs fine tuning, but for my long term goals, is a loss. This leads me back to polycarb/lexan and heat. My current single quartz heater puts out 375' heat based on an IR gun reading, so in the range of what I need to form .040 thick lexan, but during my test runs....just does not get hot enough, ( 15 min heat cycle.) I think that with a better heat box design and some other tweaks, somewhat higher heat is attainable, (?). Also, my heater box doesn't heat the corners efficiently, so I tried the mini deflector in the above post, which did help heat the corners, but obviously left the center too cool.


I've been contemplating different deflector designs such as the diamond design that drcrash used, but I also get the feeling that I just need more horsepower. Like I mentioned above, I'm hamstrung by 110v outlets and no way to access 240v and buy Proto-Form heaters yet, but what I do have is another quartz heater. So, my next step is to build a heater box using 2 of my quartz heaters, but this is the point that I want to ask for help.

So here is what I'm attempting:

.040 Polycarbonate/lexan material approx. 16" x 28" heated by 2 Quartz 1500w heaters ( which would be 4 quartz bulbs ). The lexan is SABIC general purpose which lists thermoforming as it's uses.

Am I totally crazy and this will never work, or what?

I'd greatly appreciate any feedback, good-bad-or indifferent.

Thanks guys,

Rob
_________________
generalleerc.com

I love the internet....helping the ignorant and uneducated like myself get a little less dumb, one post at a time....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
jdougn
Guru


Joined: 18 Mar 2009
Posts: 714
Location: Louisville KY area

PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! Rob that's a nice looking vac former and you've jumped right into the middle of things! I have a lot of experience with 3/16" & 1/4" ABS which is a lot different than PET or Polycarb. I won't be much help there but I will jump in with some other thoughts & ideas.

Great looking build & finding the aluminum framing was perfect. As long as you cut slowly almost any wood cutting carbide tipped saw blade will work. I've cut aluminum sheets with a circular saw this way although the miter box works best.

The filter in front of the vacuum pump is critical. The more dust the pump ingests the quicker it will fail. Some people suggest using talc to lube molds so the plastic will move easier but that was disastrous for my first pump. My replacement vac pump now has an oiled filter in front of it.

IMO, the oven needs to be as large as, or larger than the sheet being heated. Too bad you can't run a long 10g extension cord to a 220v dryer outlet or stove since you can also build an oven inexpensively. Using the second heater may make a big difference. It may also be worth the trouble to play around with the configuration of the heat shield. Make it smaller, change the shape, or perhaps drill some holes in it?

Agriculture supply stores (Tractor Supply Company, Orschelns) may be good for quick disconnects for the hose & ball valves. MSC Online has inexpensive vacuum hose that is rated for 29 inHg if the hose you're using starts collapsing.

There are other really good ideas for platens that don't involve drilling 10k holes and make getting the plastic off the mold much quicker & easier. Since I do production work a different style of platen really makes runs way faster and change over times are fast too. Let me know if you're interested in this.

Well, that's a start. I don't get on here real often so it wouldn't hurt to PM if there's anything specific.

HTH, Doug
_________________
DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
jdougn
Guru


Joined: 18 Mar 2009
Posts: 714
Location: Louisville KY area

PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One other thought. Cement board, called HardiBacker at Lowes or Home Depot, is an adequate material for the oven box especially if drop ceiling grid and/or steel studs are used for the framework. I'm a little concerned about the aluminum foil & MDF board.
_________________
DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
RobL
Newbie


Joined: 19 Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 11:44 pm    Post subject: Thanks Doug! Reply with quote

Doug, thanks for your feedback.

Quote:
Wow! Rob that's a nice looking vac former and you've jumped right into the middle of things! I have a lot of experience with 3/16" & 1/4" ABS which is a lot different than PET or Polycarb. I won't be much help there but I will jump in with some other thoughts & ideas.


Thanks for the compliment Doug, means a lot and yes...jumped right in!

Quote:
The filter in front of the vacuum pump is critical. The more dust the pump ingests the quicker it will fail. Some people suggest using talc to lube molds so the plastic will move easier but that was disastrous for my first pump. My replacement vac pump now has an oiled filter in front of it.


It seems so obvious, but this was pretty much the last piece I assembled, saw it in someones post and couldn't believe I didn't think of this. I feel your pain on the pump loss....done that in other ventures, sucks.

Quote:
IMO, the oven needs to be as large as, or larger than the sheet being heated. Too bad you can't run a long 10g extension cord to a 220v dryer outlet or stove since you can also build an oven inexpensively. Using the second heater may make a big difference. It may also be worth the trouble to play around with the configuration of the heat shield. Make it smaller, change the shape, or perhaps drill some holes in it?


220v, the house I'm in doesn't have any outlets....all gas fired appliances...maybe I could sneak a neighbors Wink Good ideas on the shield mods, I think I'm getting the gist' of the heater being larger than your material...perhaps it's easier to focus the heat rather than try to spread it ?

I think I'll probably go forth with the 2 heater idea, but the heater box sizing you brought up has me thinking...maybe I could make the heater box an expansion style with a shield at the expansion point, that way I could expand the heat and then focus it.

It's late and my brain it toast...maybe this idea is silly, will rethink in the morning. Perhaps I just need to take the time and figure out a nichrome heater for 15amp breakers...maybe run multiple feed lines from different circuits/outlets...."ok, nobody use any electricity in the house for the next hour, I'm melting plastic out here!"



Quote:
One other thought. Cement board, called HardiBacker at Lowes or Home Depot, is an adequate material for the oven box especially if drop ceiling grid and/or steel studs are used for the framework. I'm a little concerned about the aluminum foil & MDF board.


Took a quick look at hardibacker online, pretty inexpensive given what it can do, I will look into that. I appreciate your concern about the mdf, my safety is #1, I've been keeping a close eye on it and it stays room temp, maybe a degree or so higher....I've run it up to 20 mins continuous and same results. I am heading your concern Doug, as my current results don't mean shit can't go wrong.

Quote:
There are other really good ideas for platens that don't involve drilling 10k holes and make getting the plastic off the mold much quicker & easier.


Not what I want to hear...j/k Very Happy I've seen single hole platens where guys put molds on top of small mesh or risers...?

Doug, thanks again for the advice and kind words.

Rob
_________________
generalleerc.com

I love the internet....helping the ignorant and uneducated like myself get a little less dumb, one post at a time....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
RobL
Newbie


Joined: 19 Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:54 pm    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

Ok, so after almost a week of re-cobbling of my heater system, I discovered that my aluminum frame was desperately lacking of 90' angles, and no 2 surfaces were level to each other. It reminded me of the scene from "Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House"

1:50 to 2:40 in this clip :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32JWUyd1Fw0

So most of the time was spent making new brackets and leveling things out. After I got it squared, I built the dual heater and a new heater box.



Here's a pic with the quartz tubes just starting to heat up.



I loaded up a new sheet, fired up both heaters and let it come up to temp. It doesn't take very long, maybe a minute if that. I raised my lexan and took a couple temp readings, through the lexan, the IR temp gun measured 380'. It took about 90 seconds to get it to droop a couple inches, so I lowered it onto my hydrocal mold and opened the vacuum tanks. I had a mini Doc Brown moment and in my head shouted, "it worked! it acutally worked!"



There is a lot to be worked out such as my timing when switching from tank vacuum to vacuum pump vacuum, and proper mold venting, but the first obstacle are the bubbles....? My ignorant thought is that these bubbles are not due to overheating, but the moisture in the lexan trying to make it's way out.

Is this moisture or overheating???



I left the protective sheet on top of the lexan ( as rc car bodies do to help with overspray, and that was easily removed and didn't seem melted ( as an indicator of overheating ? ) so that's why I'm thinking moisture.

If you have a moment to post your thoughts, I'd really appreciate it, thanks guys.

Rob
_________________
generalleerc.com

I love the internet....helping the ignorant and uneducated like myself get a little less dumb, one post at a time....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
jdougn
Guru


Joined: 18 Mar 2009
Posts: 714
Location: Louisville KY area

PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 10:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Update Reply with quote

RobL wrote:
..."it worked! it actually worked!"
...


Excellent start to the process! Are you getting the detail expected? It appears the inside corners around the bottom of the mold are consistently the same and near 90 degrees which to me suggests adequate heat. One thing you might try doing is intentionally overheating a sheet to see how it acts. My guess is the bubbles are water vapor. Looks like you're headed in the right direction. It'll be great seeing how all of this works out for you!
dn
_________________
DougN - Just in case you're wondering, I got my "rating" legitimately... by posting aimless drivel, useless advice, and pointless questions.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
RobL
Newbie


Joined: 19 Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Excellent start to the process! Are you getting the detail expected?


Thanks Doug, as to detail...kind of. I think my preliminary mold has sufficient detail size, not sure if I'm saying that correctly, I also believe that my mold could use some proper venting/vacuum holes on some of the top surfaces/crevices. Also, my heat cycle and vacuum coordination is akin to a monkey and football at the moment...lol.

I did goof up when running the pump as the vacuum source, maybe I should of run it longer and let the lexan cool slightly more...? Or, maybe the lexan could use another 10 secs of heat...not sure.

Thanks for the encouragement, it's been a long week, but this is a definite upswing!
_________________
generalleerc.com

I love the internet....helping the ignorant and uneducated like myself get a little less dumb, one post at a time....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
RobL
Newbie


Joined: 19 Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

( This is a continuation of semi-related posts in the "drying lexan" thread.)


Ok, so after doing more reading here n' there, my initial thought of decreasing the distance or making a shorter heater box is the opposite of what I need to do. With the unmodified heaters I'm using, it's an on/off situation, so based on spektr's WATTS/DISTANCE/TIME, I can adjust/increase the distance and measure/adjust time.

From what I've seen on other videos using similar heating methods, they have a box depth upwards of 18", I'm currently at 9.5". I'll try extending my box x amount based on the room I have and report back.



Thanks spektr,

Rob
_________________
generalleerc.com

I love the internet....helping the ignorant and uneducated like myself get a little less dumb, one post at a time....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
RobL
Newbie


Joined: 19 Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 1:46 pm    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

Ok, so here's an update, I've learned a little more in regards to heat shadowing/shielding and have had minor success. I've also made headway in understanding the watts/distance/time triangle in it's practical use. In the end, I have a small pile of malformed/destroyed polycarb sheets and a little bit more knowledge.

The only changes I've made to the heater is to add a 90' piece of aluminum sheet hanging from the center, which runs the length of the heater box ( looks like a pent roof inside.) This has helped but is far from perfected.

The first pic is just to show that all the help I've received here is actually getting me in the right direction.

The second pic is evidence that I still have adjustments to make....




[/img]


At this point, in experimenting with heating distance and time, I am realizing the limited capabilities of my heater arrangement, particulary the foil/mdf combo. Technically, it is horseshit. Not that I didn't understand that going in, but I did underestimate the testing/trials the ovenbox would be subjected to in order to get the process figured out. ( credit to jdougan for pointing that out earlier.) What I mean by this is, at 90 second run times..all seeks ok, however, I may have the heaters running for 2 - 10 mins while adjusting distances and measuring sheet temps ( relative ) with an infrared gun...and the 1/8" MDF gets warmer than I'm comfortable with.




The next step is either to create a box from hardibacker, which might function ok given there are no nichrome coils hanging from it, etc.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/James-Hardie-HardieBacker-5-ft-x-3-ft-x-1-2-in-Ceramic-Tile-Backer-Board-220023/100170507#.UfLRFb4o4dU

(and) OR

Contacting Protoform Doug with an inquiry about his modular heaters and 110v configuration/power supply options.


Any advice is welcomed and appreciated, thanks guys.
_________________
generalleerc.com

I love the internet....helping the ignorant and uneducated like myself get a little less dumb, one post at a time....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Fredo
Master


Joined: 21 Mar 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Kingdom of Nye Area 51

PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robl, I don't understand why 3 ball valves? I use only 2, one to isolate the tank after it's pulled down and one to close the platen from the pump to pull the tank down. I start the pump and it's only pulling through the platen as the plastic is coming down. Then open the other one when the plastic seals, to bring the tank on line with the pump still running. The tank pulls the vacuum down fast, close that valve and the pump alone finishes at a higher vacuum much faster... With thick plastic and large molds you need the boost the tanks give.. Thinner stuff and a good seal, the pump alone will sometimes suffice.. How about a few pics of the plumbing?
This is the two valve setup I use. One valve is on the end and one on the side. There is also a brass check valve at the end of the clear tubing. Most pumps have them in the pump, but I wasn't sure about my pump.. You can see my complete vf on page 10 of the gallery.. Hope you don't mind my posting pics in your thread..
http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz158/mytwhyt/IMG_1244.jpg
Changed the pic so it didn't link back to photobucket. Still learning bout these damned pics..
_________________
If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you,
it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun...The Dalai Lama..Seattle 2001
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
RobL
Newbie


Joined: 19 Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fredo, and anyone else, if you think it can help, please post any pics you like, I appreciate the advice. As far as 3 valves......I saw it on another machine and it seemed to make sense at the time so, monkey see...monkey do. Is that a particular brass check valve ( brand, part #? )

I don't have any pics of the plumbing, so I'll make an attempt to explain it....from the pump to a "T", each side of the T goes to a small ball valve, one valve to the platen( "T" into the large hose on the platen side of the large ball valve,) and one to the tanks. The Big valve is obviously from the tanks to the platen. I lower the plastic, open the big valve, it drops to...um, 15" ( cant' remember,) then I close it and open the valve from the pump to the platen to finish. Your setup is less steps, but I think we accomplish the same thing?


I've also had a chance to do more reading here, via Fredo threads and others, as I've been contemplating modifications or a total redesign for my heater. I think I've uncovered a few more of my incompetent oven design issues, I've focused the oven directly to the plastic, neglecting the frame holding the material, which contributes to my heating uniformity issues. My frame is aluminum as well, which doesn't help the situation. Perhaps these are not the worst errors to make, but they sure don't help.

Example of a BAD error: Breathing MDF fumes.... mess you up man!


Given the design of my dual heater system, and how I have to shade it...the last heat cycle was my best result as far as evening out temperature, but I was adjusting plastic distance and ran the heaters longer than I'm comfortable with so the pull was trash, didn't droop far enough. I'm not going to make any further attempts until I have a a different oven hood design, I think I've ridden that horse as far as she'll go.

I understand if guys abstain from heater advice given the culture of liability we live in. Some of what I post is just for guys who may have even less of a clue than I have, and might help them skip those error prone steps.

Thanks,

Rob
_________________
generalleerc.com

I love the internet....helping the ignorant and uneducated like myself get a little less dumb, one post at a time....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Fredo
Master


Joined: 21 Mar 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Kingdom of Nye Area 51

PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you read this thread? It explains the diy oven build fairly well
http://www.tk560.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1598&highlight=
There's another thread that addresses it better, I'll look for it.
Found it.... http://www.tk560.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1162&highlight=protoform+build
_________________
If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you,
it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun...The Dalai Lama..Seattle 2001
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
RobL
Newbie


Joined: 19 Jun 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Indiana

PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I've read that thread, and from what I gather, using a hardibacker oven is somewhat acceptable if used in a plastic over heater configuration, or minimal hobby uses. Being that mine would be overhead, and the thought of cracking....yuck, am I going to be punching out 1000 parts a day...no, but I'd like to be able to run the machine without worrying about a ticking clock of cracking hardibacker. Hell, maybe I'm paranoid about the wrong things.

I hope I haven't missed the point you're trying to make Fredo. I also hope I'm not making this harder than it has to be.


As I get further and further along with this joyous adventure, I am slowly waking up to the idea of how all these pieces are suppose to work in harmony, and when straying from proven plans...how much extra effort it takes to coerce one of the ill fitting pieces into the puzzle.
_________________
generalleerc.com

I love the internet....helping the ignorant and uneducated like myself get a little less dumb, one post at a time....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Fredo
Master


Joined: 21 Mar 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Kingdom of Nye Area 51

PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure the second thread is Dougs oven kit.
_________________
If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you,
it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun...The Dalai Lama..Seattle 2001
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    www.TK560.com Forum Index -> Vacuum Forming & General Stuff All times are GMT - 6 Hours
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

phpBB "skin" by DewChugr


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group