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THOUGHTS FOR THE OLD WATER HEATER TANK CHALLENGED
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plasticfan
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 6:21 pm    Post subject: THOUGHTS FOR THE OLD WATER HEATER TANK CHALLENGED Reply with quote

After months of searching for a heater tank on freecycle, craigstlist, ebay etc, Ive all but given up. Im thinking of dropping about 100 clams on a propane tank. However the one I saw at Lowes, seems a bit thin.

Anyone here use a propane tank, and if so, what kind?-- ie, make, model, lbs, etc.

Anyone use the 100 lb tank at Lowes? I saw it last night. Seemed kinda thin.

thanks
Plasticfan


Last edited by plasticfan on Tue Oct 31, 2006 1:13 am; edited 1 time in total
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jegner
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know how much the propane tank you refer to costs, but have you considered using a 30 gallon hot water tank? Used ones would do fine as long as the did not leak. Cheap too. 40 gallon is more comon.
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drcrash
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:18 pm    Post subject: beware of large, thin-walled steel vacuum tanks Reply with quote

If it seems thin, I would not risk it.

People often think that if a tank can hold several atmospheres of pressure, it should be able to hold one atmosphere of vacuum. That is not true in general, maybe especially if you're talking about steel.

In general, the crush strength of a tube with a given thickness of wall drops off rapidly with increasing diameter, much more rapidly than pressure handling does.

Positive pressure handling depends primarily on tensile strength of the walls, and not directly on wall thickness.

Crush strength depends on thickness, because thickness increases rigidity. (Thicker is better.) It also depends on curvature, so it depends on diameter. (Smaller is better.)

A material with very high tensile strength can be thin and still handle a lot of pressure, because when it's under pressure, the walls are in tension like a ballon.

Those thin walls will have much lower crush strength for a big tube, both because they're thin and because they're not very curved. Thin metal is much more flexible than thick metal, and flat metal is much more flexible than bent metal. (In the direction at right angles to the bend, i.e., inward.)

That means that at some sufficiently large diameter, a thin-walled steel tube that can handle any given number of atmospheres of pressure will nonetheless crumple under one atmosphere of vacuum.

Unfortunately, I don't know how to figure out what that diameter is, for a given pressure-handling rating. (And it probably depends somewhat on what alloy is used, details of construction, etc.)

I only trust my little compressed air carry tank as a vacuum tank because it's little.

I wouldn't even trust large household hot water tanks, except that everybody seems to use them, even pros, and they don't seem to implode on anybody.

(The Plexiglas (TM) forming manual suggests using them as vacuum tanks. I suspect that if hot water tanks were prone to imploding under vacuum, they'd have heard about it and stopped recommending them. That gives me more confidence than Thurston James's recommendation alone, or the fact that nobody I know of has had a problem.)
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jegner
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The general rule of thumb is the max obtainable vacuum, [as it releates to tank stress] exerts the equivalent of about 15psi. Tony, can give you the exact specifics, but it seems like he and I have talked about this before. Compressed gas cylinders, and water tanks usually have enough strength to hold a vacuum without imploding. I've even seen those plastic farm tanks used as vacuum resivors.
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drcrash
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The general rule of thumb is the max obtainable vacuum, [as it releates to tank stress] exerts the equivalent of about 15psi.


Yes. I think it's close to 14.7 PSI.

Unfortunately, there isn't a simple way to correlate pressure handling with vacuum handling (crush strength), because it depends on the diameter and the thickness of the walls and the rigidity of the material.

Quote:
Tony, can give you the exact specifics, but it seems like he and I have talked about this before. Compressed gas cylinders, and water tanks usually have enough strength to hold a vacuum without imploding.


I would expect that relatively narrow cylinders for high pressure gas would be fine. Big diameters are worrisome.

I'm very unsure about propane and liquefied natural gas and things like that. My impression is that those are not really compressed very hard; when compressed and put under pressure, they just liquefy and that phase transition greatly reduces the pressure. (If they stayed gases, the pressure would be proportional to the degree of compression, but they don't.)

Those tanks may be thin and not well-proportioned. (Some of them, at least, seem short and stout. Not good.) They may not be good for vacuum.

I also wonder about tanks for various things. Some tanks are designed to never hold regular air with regular humidity. If you put regular air in them, they'll rust.

One nice thing about water heater tanks is that they're designed to tolerate water; I think they're lined with epoxy or some other plastic so that they won't rust inside.

I've looked at some disposable tanks for gases like freon and helium, and been tempted to use several of them---you can get them for free, and they even have valves on them. Cool. But they're thin, and I suspect they're not lined with anything to inhibit rust, so if you put real air in them you could have a problem after a while. Unfortunately, I think there are several reasons they're labeled "DO NOT REFILL". Sad

That might apply to some tanks for petroleum gases, too. They may not be designed to ever have anything but petroleum gases in them, i.e., no outside air. (Does anybody know? I've never used big propane or liquid natural gas containers, so I don't really know how they're used.)

Quote:
I've even seen those plastic farm tanks used as vacuum resivors.


That's very interesting. I've been thinking that plastic pressure vessels may be the best bet. Since plastic has much lower tensile strength than steel, the walls have to be much thicker. That may give them better crush-resistance for a given size and level of pressure-handling than steel tanks. Using "weak" materials for pressure may make them thick, and strong in compression.

Do you know the standard term for those plastic farm tanks? I'd like to look into it.

Paul
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plasticfan
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So Im not sure where that leaves me.

What I do know is general guage strength. The propane tank I saw at lowes sounded thin when I tapped on it, so my judgement was hardly scientific but rather based on a hunch that this tank was no more than about 16 guage thick.


My reason for seriously looking into propane tanks is because I simply cannot located a water heater. Tried ebay, craigstlist, etc. Bubkiss.


I would be more than willing to travel and pay a reasonable fee for a good conditioned one. Trade too.
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drcrash
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's somebody giving away a 50-gallon on DC Craigslist

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/hsh/226479619.html
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rockwerks
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

co2 tanks and liquid fuel tanks are rated for 1650 psi or 3000 depending on the MFGR.
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drcrash
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
co2 tanks and liquid fuel tanks are rated for 1650 psi or 3000 depending on the MFGR.


What do you mean by "liquid fuel" here?

My impression is that butane, propane and LP gas tanks aren't that heavy duty.

I did some googling and found things talking about relief valves used in propane tanks, which vent excess propane if the pressure goes over 250 or 325 PSI. That's higher than I thought, but... I'm not sure what the tanks themselves are rated at, but I'd be surprised if consumer-oriented portable tanks could handle 1650 or 3000 PSI. (Oxygen or C02 cylinders, yes, but portable propane tanks from Lowe's, I wouldn't think so.)

On the other hand, 250 PSI is twice what my little air carry tank is supposed to hold. If the diameter isn't' much bigger, I'd guess that the propane tank could handle vacuum, pressure-wise.

I'd still worry about the lining and rust issues. I saw one thing saying never flush a propane tank with water. I'd guess that they're designed to always have some propane in them, if only a little gaseous propane when they're "empty," and to never hold normal air with moisture in it. If thats right, it might be perfectly good for vacuum for a long time, but be a time bomb that would eventually rust out. and implode.
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plasticfan
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree the rust issue....or better put the oxidation issue via humidity which is invariably part of many areas in the US, is a serious concern for an otherwise thinner tank.

As for the Craigstlist finds, most are for modern tanks...nothing more than fiberglass and copper.
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plasticfan
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few more thoughts:


--Lets see if we can determine the guage thickness of a water heater tank and a propane tank. My gut is telling me they must be close---I cant possibly see why a water heater would be that thick....er, rather thicker than a propane tank.

--If the advantage is merely that the water tank is presumably internally coated with something, I would like to know what....zinc? tin? copper?

--and if it is coated, that implies that any tank other than a water tank is subject to oxidation, so Id then be curious to know what other people are using if not water heater tanks. ..and how long theyve been using them.
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drcrash
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
As for the Craigstlist finds, most are for modern tanks...nothing more than fiberglass and copper.


I don't know about this modern construction.

I've done a little googling on the subject, and found several things saying that residential water heater tanks are made of steel, with a bonded glass or plastic liner. (And it sounded like bonded glass was old school, but still common.) I've also seen things that say that typical tanks have a relief valves to vent pressure over 150 PSI, and are tested at 300 for a safety margin. (I may have seen some lower numbers like 125 and 250, respectively; I don't remember exactly, but that's the ballpark.)

I haven't read anything about fiberglass and copper.

I would expect that more modern tanks would tend to have more fiberglass insulation (or polyurethane foam), but that underneath there'd still be a steel tank. Or if there's a copper tank in there, it would have similar pressure-handling abilities, and would be lined to resist corrosion. (A copper tank with the pressure same pressure handling as a steel tank might be better at handling vacuum, because it would need thicker walls.)
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drcrash
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 12:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Lets see if we can determine the guage thickness of a water heater tank and a propane tank. My gut is telling me they must be close---I cant possibly see why a water heater would be that thick....er, rather thicker than a propane tank.


Given the stuff I've googled lately, it does sound as though propane and water tanks would have similarly thick walls, and that propane tank would likely be a bit stronger (given the higher relief valve pressures of 250 or 325 PSI, as opposed to 125 or 250). I'd guess that both would have a fair margin of safety beyond that for different reasons. (For propane, because it's holding flammable gas, and you need to be extra careful with that. For water heaters, because they're used in residences, where safety things are often more stringently regulated, and things are generally supposed to fail safe if you neglect to maintain them.)

Quote:
and if it is coated, that implies that any tank other than a water tank is subject to oxidation, so Id then be curious to know what other people are using if not water heater tanks. ..and how long theyve been using them.


I am using a compressed air carry tank. (An "Air Stream" brand 7-gallon tank, rated at 125 PSI, $20 at Wal-Mart.) For my bigger platen I'll probably need a second tank, maybe somewhat larger.

I would hope that a compressed air tank would be safe to use, lining-wise, because it's expected to hold pressurized regular old air, and it doesn't carry any warnings saying that the air must be very dry.

My impression is that compressed air promotes corrosion. (IIRC, some "stainless" steels are only stainless at reasonably normal temperatures and pressures, and will rust if you put high-pressure humid air into them. That's a concern with scuba tanks, which must be inspected regularly.) My expectation would be that a tank that won't rust out holding compressed air won't rust out holding air at less than atmospheric pressure, either---but I don't really know that, and I have no information on any lining in this tank.
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rockwerks
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My personal thhoughts on the subject are that if one can safely use a beer keg the propane tank will surely be safe. LOL
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drcrash
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
My personal thhoughts on the subject are that if one can safely use a beer keg the propane tank will surely be safe.


Maybe you're just joking, but...

I don't know if anybody's firmly established that using a keg is safe. And a beer keg is designed to hold mostly water most of the time; a propane tank isn't.

I'd guess that a propane tank would work fine for a good long time, but just might eventually rust inside enough to be dangerously weak. I'd guess that a beer keg wouldn't, ever, either because it's lined or the inner tank is made out of aluminum. (Not a beer keg expert; I just like the beer.)

But that might be wrong, too. Maybe kegs aren't maintenance-free, and are supposed to be inspected regularly, and taken out of service when they go bad. (I've seen old beer kegs on a scrap heap, with big holes poked in them to keep anybody from trying to use them again. Hmmm.)
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