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update on larger stormtrooper
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chefhawk
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Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 56
Location: Redditch uk

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 10:28 am    Post subject: update on larger stormtrooper Reply with quote

Hi guys, as you know ive taken a slightly different route with the mold making process.
It took a few days to get the mold done, then after more resaerch i remved the indents section. I added more contours to the overall shape. Then the top part was added and sculpted again. So far its take about 2 weeks on and off.
I used some hips cut to size for the edging sections.


different angle..



as you can see ive added a wall of clay.
Next up was using gelflex whic needs heating to 200 degrees.


This was spooned and poured on.



Then i put a plaster sleeve/caot over the top. This is to hold the shape of the gelfex.
#


Once a few days has passed i turned the mold upside down and filled in with some more plaster to creat the male mold with which i will vac form off.



I will post some more after tomorrow of the final plaster cast mold/plug


cheers
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jegner
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Joined: 30 May 2003
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Location: Texas, USA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool!

Nice progress, and a great way to get the molds done. How much does the gelflex cost? Can you remelt it?

Jim
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chefhawk
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Location: Redditch uk

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks

You can re-melt gelflex. as long as you dont burn or scorch it!
I got it from a uk supplier and it cost
5.83 Inc VAT + deliver cots. That is for a kilo

http://www.tiranti.co.uk/search.asp?Keyword=gelflex&x=0&y=0

cheers
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chefhawk
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Location: Redditch uk

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heres some pics of the plaster cast that came from the mold.
I had to do a little bit of touching up as there were some bumps and lines that shouldnt be there.




These pictures show the mold compared to a piece of fx armor


Ive started on the other section to the forearm.
Im using the existing clay to build upon.


cheers
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TK 109
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Joined: 11 May 2007
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Location: Galena, Ohio

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whoa!

yea, that's the way to do that!

i LOVE the chest armor! VERY well done!
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chefhawk
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers alex.

Laughing
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ANH trooper
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Joined: 20 Oct 2005
Posts: 302
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 3:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hiya Chef....TM here Very Happy

Nice job on the moulds mate! I have another little tip for you if you want to make two complete forearms from one mould like I did.

Cast four forearms in plaster from the first mould you made. Then shave off the 'ladder' section from two and do a bit of sanding and sraping to shape them into the inner sections. For the outer halfs, simply add some filler (I used Mangers decorators filler from Wilkinsons) to the front side of the ladder section on each arm to bring the ladder forward. You will need to adjust the ladder section as they are not centred on the real suits so the left arm is more to left and right to the right. Shave off the joining strip on the back side of the parts and you have some accurate ANH forearms!

This is just a suggestion mate, but it helped me a lot and saved a lot of time making new sculpts. Best thing is too is that if you mess up, you can just cast another and start again as you have the master mould.

Get a profile guage too to make each side a mirror image. I'd make a complete left or right then use the guage to make a mirrored opposite version. Then if you want, can make the right forearm have 12 indents and the left 11 like on the real suit as nothing is an actual mirror image, but close.

Hope this helps mate and again...only a suggestion.

-Paul Very Happy
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TK 109
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Location: Galena, Ohio

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

goos idea, man!

i ought to try this....

Very Happy
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chefhawk
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul thanks for the advice. Its always good to hear from such a talented man.

I hope i understand your thoughts right?

Heres a pic of what i understood you to say


Im just waiting on an order from alec tiranti and ill crack on some more,obviously taking on board your advice(which is always welcome)


cheers mate
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jegner
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What sort of material are you using for your male production mold? Plaster or some other hardset material?

JIm
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ANH trooper
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Joined: 20 Oct 2005
Posts: 302
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Happy to help you out Chef Very Happy

You basically have got it right but in the diagram you modified, the 12 indents are on the left arm, not the right.

I have done another diagram showing the profiles of the forearms. The inner peices are the same more or less, without the ladder strip on. You can see that the back section of each part doesn't have the joining edge ao allowing some adjustment if neccesary.

I will get some measurements of mine up shortly but I am pretty sure the the ladder strip is the same distance away from the joining edge at the top end and bottom end, but the middle is further away due to the shape of the forearm bulging in the middle. From certain angles though, it does look like a straight parallel line.

I sued this same technique for the biceps, shins and thighs with the exception of making a left and right shin and thigh then modifying them after casting to make the inner/outer sections. More on that later when you get to it. Let us know and I will when you are ready and i will go into more detail.

TTFN,

-Paul.
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chefhawk
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul im blown away with your knowledge and help..
Thanks so much.

i will endevour to make the corrections this weekend as i have the supplies to do it...

Hopefully there wil be some updates and pictures by sunday.

Thanks TROOPERMASTER.
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chefhawk
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jegner wrote:
What sort of material are you using for your male production mold? Plaster or some other hardset material?

JIm

sorry jim , i wasnt ignoring you.
I was just keen to get some more done on this project.

The material for the male mod/plug is just plain ol Plaster of paris.

I did try to use some stuff called finishing plaster, but it just doesnt have the same strength.



cheers
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chefhawk
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi jim this is the results of using finishing plaster..


Right since ive last been here ive been working on some advice from anh trooper
I managed to save the clay from the previous mold and i carved off the ladder section. I also made a few adjustments and took off the edging strips.




I then Made a moldcase of the front arm under piece.

Then once i had the mold cases i adjusted inside the arm piece with the lladder section by adding some clay. One remolded the ladder section will have "dissapeared"




The plaster mix was made by sifting plaster through my fingers into the water. Its added to the point when little islands appear. I leave it for 5 minutes before a quick mix then pour into the molds


Then ive redone the ladder section with 12 bits on the left arm piece.

I will do the right arm piece ladder section after work tomorrow.
Then its onto making molds again.





cheers
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ANH trooper
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's coming along nicely Chef but you are still putting the 12 indents on the wrong arm if you are going for ANH accuracy. The right arm has 12 and the left has 11. I just want you to do this right mate Wink

I think I have read somewhere that you can mix ordinary portland cement into plaster of paris to make it stronger, something like 5-1 plaster-cement?

I used to mix the plaster with a plastic beaker for measuring, 1 cup of cold water to 2 cups of plaster. Sift the plaster into the water and let it soak for a while then give it a good old mix, tapping my bowl on the table to bring the air bubbles up.

Make your castings hollow to save on plaster and weight. There is no need for the castings to be solid but if you wanted to, you could fill them with lightweight browning plaster. Just make the casting about half an inch thick and that is plenty Smile
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