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Oven, all of the coil is not on

 
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remarque
Newbie


Joined: 06 Oct 2006
Posts: 22
Location: The Carolinas

PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 10:01 pm    Post subject: Oven, all of the coil is not on Reply with quote

After looking at the oven tutorial on TK650, I started wiring mine. My oven is smaller than the one he designed. I plugged it up and filp the switch, the coil starts to heat up then all of a sudden a piece of the coil breaks off. It broke off between connection C and D if you look at the James Thurston Design.It broke off at the connection C and D if you look at the James Thurston Design. After that I removed all the coil and rewired it with another coil, but I disconnected connection C because I though it may be to much for the short span of wire. When I go to turn this one the connection C and D doesnt even heat up but all the other surrounding do.

Also I'm not using coil from infrared heaters, I'm using the coils from a dryer heating element. They can in about 3ft length uncoiled.

Can someone give me a hand in rewirng my oven?
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dman
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Joined: 09 Oct 2006
Posts: 34

PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason that the wire heats up is basically because it is shorted. To have a short, it must be hot to ground (or nuetral). Hooked up properly, it must go hot-nuetral-hot-nuetral (A-B-C-D-etc). If you disconnect one of the wires, it no longer shorts on that section and therefore will have no current running through it because you have 2 hots or two nuetrals together.
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jegner
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Joined: 30 May 2003
Posts: 2144
Location: Texas, USA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the wiring oven calculator: http://www.imperial-armor.com/ovencalculations.html

It will help you scale your oven.
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drcrash
Guru


Joined: 04 Sep 2006
Posts: 705
Location: Austin, Texas

PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Also I'm not using coil from infrared heaters, I'm using the coils from a dryer heating element. They can in about 3ft length uncoiled.


Unless the nichrome is the same gauge as the 22-gauge stuff Thurston James specifies, you need to take the different resistance into account.

If you have or can borrow an ohmmeter (or volt-ohm meter, or multimeter), you can measure the resistance of the coil you've got, and figure out how it differs, and compensate for it by using more or less coil to get the same resistance per segment.

(If your nichrome is too thick, you may find that you need more coil than it's worth, and you should buy some 22-gauge from somebody here who's got extra.)

Harbor Freight has a $10 "multi-tester" (multimeter) that's on sale for $3 right now. Presumably it's not the best-built, most robust device, but it would probably do the trick.

Paul
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