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Jim... How did you do your calf and chest molds??
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TK 109
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Joined: 11 May 2007
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Location: Galena, Ohio

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i found some bondo at home depot yesterday (what a relief, i thought i had to go to an auto parts place!), and i noticed that home depot also sold this bondo "HARDENING AGENT" in a white squeeze-tube.

what's supposed to happen is, you mix some of that stuff (cant remember how much) in with the redd bondo, and you get this salmon-colored bondo.... stuff

i was wondering if you guys had any idea about this, if you absolutely NEED (i doubt you need it) the hardening agent to make the bondo do what its supposed to do, or if you guys don't even use it. at your site, jim, i always notice that the bondo on your molds are dark red, not salmon-colored. the bondo i used for a short time was a small squeeze tube that was never touched in YEARS, and was dark red also. i just squeezed it on, and it dried fast!

is the newer bondo stuff different, do you need the hardener, too? Confused

OH! and about the spot-filler primer. i asked for that stuff at lowe's, and they (of course) took me to the paint section. the only "spot-filler primer" they had was a primer in a 1-gallon paint jug that was "used for cement and brick stuff", or something around those lines (it was several months ago). Is that the right stuff? Do you even need spot-filler primer?
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sethb6025
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Joined: 10 Nov 2006
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Location: York, PA

PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Bondo I usually buy (All-Purpose Putty) has a tube of hardener with it, you mix it with the goo in the can and it sets up in about 5-10 minutes. There might be a different one-part version though.
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jegner
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bondo is a 2-part polyester resin. Stinks to high heaven when curing, and that tiny tube of hardener is needed for the exothermic reaction. Most of the pics you see of my stuff is the top coats, and once I apply a primer paint, it shows me the flaws. I use Spot filler, red stuff in a tube that dries pretty fast. Not good for thick spots, but great for scratches.

Walmart sells the spot filler primer paint, in the auto section. Duplicolor I think is the brand. Maybe Plasticote.

Jim
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TK 109
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

interesting...
i had a little tube of bondo that was red, and i just put it on and it dried. the instructions i found on the cans and tubey things and such stated that the final mixture (putty stuff) should be salmon pinkish color. my bondo definately was NOT pink. course, that stuff was older , so, who knows! Very Happy
anyway, so i NEED that tube of.... catalyst stuff in order for the bondo to do its thing properly? or can i just slap the putty on and pray it dries?
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jegner
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This stuff needs the little tube of catalyst [comes with the kit]:



This stuff is spot putty and does not need any catalyst:



Jim

http://www.bondo-online.com/
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TK 109
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Location: Galena, Ohio

PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....... Embarassed
oops
ok well that tube of spot filler was the suff i used.
OOOk....
well thanks a bunch for that!
they're both made from the "BONDO" company, that's what confused me.
i thought the spot-filler primer was for auto stuff, but that guy at lowe's lead me to the concrete/paint section...
gotta love lowes, eh?
good for wood, tools and plumbing that's pretty much it! Laughing
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jegner
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last set of MDF vac molds I've made did not have bondo, but rather a wood filler, made by Elmers. Much slower to dry, and not as strong, but sands easier, and does not stink at all unlike the Bondo. It's been so wet and rainy, I had to move my operation indoors, so the Bondo was out. So far, the Elmers wood filler has been a decent indoor alternative.



Just allow several hours to dry if spread on thick. And expect a little cracking. Nothing a top coat can't fix.
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drcrash
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're doing clear parts, watch out for wood filler. Some wood fillers outgas stuff when they're hot that will cloud clear plastics like PETG.

I suspect that if you vacuum form a thin plastic "slipper" layer over it, and leave it on and vacuum form your stuff over that, the problem will go away---but I don't know for sure.
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TK 109
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've been using wood filler.... (actually my dad's Smile )
it works great, but it's not a plaster type of thing, where you just slap on a thick layer and sand it down.... "it cracks like that!" that's what my dad says. suprislingy, though, it works GREAT! but i'm out, and i'm trying to listen to dad and buy bondo or plaster, somthing much more expendible, i guess, rather that wood putty, designed for cracks and holes. but if it's cheaper, and if it works, then i'll buy some. like the biggest size container i can find!

i've been pondering plaster products, like plaster of paris and spackle stuff, but i always come to the same conclusion, it'll crack and fall off!
or will it? plaster of paris is good, because i can mix it to the right thickness i need, and if i need to, add water. i have spackle, but that stuff is.... um....old.

So i guess i'm looking for something cheap and readily available and PERFECT for mold-making. somthing possibly cheaper than bondo.
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jegner
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you should try this stuff:



Here are some details on what you can do with it:
http://www.waterputty.com/create.htm

Better option than bondo, and stronger than plaster of paris.
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TK 109
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Location: Galena, Ohio

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

most impressive! Very Happy
it doesn't need a catalyst either!
this stuff is cheaper that bondo?
will it give me the same results with bondo/woodfiller?
will it give me the smooth-as-glass finish (after finish sanding, of course)?
it looks like all these answers are "YES"!
I was thinking of casting with this stuff as an alternative to plaster of paris, it looks like you can!
COOL! Cool
thanks jim!
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badger
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the Durhams extensively on my Tusken Raider mask mold, and it worked well at first. It's super easy to mix up, no utterly foul stench of bondo, and goes on easily and molds well.

It does have a few problems.

Thin layers will dry and crack off. I have to rework my mold now because of this. I am going to experiment with something like a sanding sealer to coat it and hold it together, but I haven't had time.

However, despite the flaws, this stuff is GREAT for molding. I hope the sealer works because I love using this stuff over bondo.

Any one worked with sanding sealer?

Quick tip: once things are close to dry, wet your finger tips and smooth everything out. saves time on sanding.

You can see an example of how I used it on my Gaffi stick for my tusken costume here:
http://box23.net/index.php/badgercostumes/tusken-raider/tusken-tutorial/tusken-tutorial-gaffi-stick

badger
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jegner
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Badger, I like your approach to the gaffi stick. Better than others studio creations I've seen. Any pics of the mask? Vac formed?
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