View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
takevin Newbie
Joined: 05 Apr 2006 Posts: 10
|
Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 5:22 am Post subject: best way to raise/lower frame from a over/under former? |
|
|
Just wanted to see what are some of the ways to do this??
Last edited by takevin on Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:10 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
takevin Newbie
Joined: 05 Apr 2006 Posts: 10
|
Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
anyone? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
knightshade Expert
Joined: 19 Jun 2005 Posts: 123 Location: Rochester NY
|
Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:21 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I've seen some video's with a cool leverage arm that does that.... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
drcrash Guru
Joined: 04 Sep 2006 Posts: 705 Location: Austin, Texas
|
Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 1:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
For a relatively small machine (ike up to about 2 x 2) and relatively thing plastic, you can just use your hands.
For larger machines and thick ornery plastic, the lift levers on Doug Walsh's Proto Form machine (he sells the plans) are nice:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=S9EgeknznRc
Clonesix has more or less copied that for his cheaper system, using brazed aluminum rather than welded steel:
http://www.tk560.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=727
Some of the design issues are explained in this thread:
http://www.tk560.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=356
One thing that's NOT in there is there is that the Proto Form machines have a bar running under the platen, with the lower levers welded to it. That ensures that the lower levers are always at the same angle on both sides. If the front bar and its connections the top levers are rigid, that ensures that the plastic stays level side to side. (The rear pivots have to be at the same height, and if the handle and the upper levers stay in a plane, that ensures that the pivots where the upper bars connect to the clamping frame will be at the same height as well.)
I'm not sure how important that is. It may not matter much unless your machine is really wide. It may be sufficient to ensure that you bring the front bar down fairly horizontal.
Other mechanisms are possible. A lot of industrial machines (and Harley Guy's, here) use pneumatic cylinders. You could also use a cable-and-pulley arrangement, but it gets a little ugly. (The upside is that it wouldn't require strong welded or brazed stuff.)
Some day I hope to figure out how to make strong-enough Proto Form-type levers with cheap off-the-shelf parts and no welding, but I haven't yet. _________________ Paul (a.k.a. Dr. Crash)
Tired of buying cheap plastic crap? Now you can make your own! www.VacuumFormerPlans.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
takevin Newbie
Joined: 05 Apr 2006 Posts: 10
|
Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:44 am Post subject: |
|
|
thank you for the info, is there any pics of the pulley system at all from anyone who did this? I was thinking of going with lift levers like in that one video. The vacuum former size platen is 22x30. Just started yesterday. plan on drilling today. yaaah! Do you use a blow torch to braze? I was planning on getting a arc welder to do the frames. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cod Master
Joined: 05 Nov 2006 Posts: 322 Location: San Francisco
|
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
this might help- my over-under design with pulleys:
http://www.cjod.net/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=2
The only welding on this is the square plastic-holding frames. The pulley setup can work. Some industrial machines have variations of this design.
The frame is attached to a wood box, which is lined with aluminum flashing to reflect heat. The box/frame rides up and down on slotted rails. _________________ <.o'> |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ThorsgaardFoundry Novice
Joined: 03 Sep 2007 Posts: 30
|
Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 9:49 am Post subject: |
|
|
don't some pro machines use a sideways slide? - just from what I've seen.. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cod Master
Joined: 05 Nov 2006 Posts: 322 Location: San Francisco
|
Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 2:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
yes, sideways, then drop.
this is great if you got the room and the mechanical skills and the extra money for materials.
it allows you to build a completely enclosing oven, which would be an advantage for going over 1/8" thick plastic by inserting the plastic in an oven completely and getting heat on both sides. _________________ <.o'> |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ThorsgaardFoundry Novice
Joined: 03 Sep 2007 Posts: 30
|
Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 6:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
So, the plastic frame goes into the oven like a pizza, then out and then down? SWEET! (Maybe cook a DiGornio's on less busy days?) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cod Master
Joined: 05 Nov 2006 Posts: 322 Location: San Francisco
|
Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
or try to thermo form some mozzarella . _________________ <.o'> |
|
Back to top |
|
|
TK 109 Guru
Joined: 11 May 2007 Posts: 712 Location: Galena, Ohio
|
Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
i like mozzarella, my favorite cheese... _________________ -Alex
-------------------------------------------------------
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ahillworks Master
Joined: 18 Nov 2007 Posts: 308 Location: Orlando FL
|
Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You guys are crazy lol. Tuna Melts sound great right now. lol. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|