www.TK560.com

[ANH trooper]

Hi guys,

Finally I have just recieved my Edwards E2M-12 high vacuum pump and I'm eager to get this thing plumbed up. I realise I need a filter, gate valves, pipes and connectors, but is there anything else apart from the holding tank?

I am thinking of using copper pipe for the plumbing, but which would be better, 15mm or 22mm?

I also need a connector for the pump, but I am going to visit a store tomorrow to see what I need for this set up.

Thanks,

-Paul.

[ahillworks]

Well next step is to figure out how much platen (forming table) size you need to vacuum. Once you have that size then this will help with size of piping. Keep in mind that the bigger the table the bigger the piping should be to allow more air flow to pass. Copper is fine not needed since it’s not water but as the guy at homedepo said its nice and wont rust later on. Lowes and home depo may have cheaper connections to convert from one size to another compared to the shops around. And if you want nice quality then go with cooper but keep in mind at the end its going to cost an arm and leg. A few people have suggested PVC piping which is low cost and easy to size down if needed. Bigger the tank the better I guess you can say. The more air mass that can pull on the platen the better. Most go with a 20 gallon to start with and others go with bigger. I went with a 7 gallon since I made a smaller table than most. If you have any questions ask away but also keep in mind allot of answers are in this forum already so if you don’t like to read like I don’t do it anyway you will be amazed at what you learn. Edit:: forgot the piping size. No lower than 1/4 or 3/8 and most use 1/2 and 3/4.

[ANH trooper]

Thanks bud

I already have a vacuum former which has a 24" x 24" platen and using an industrial vacuum cleaner as suction, and bought this pump to upgrade I am going to go with copper pipe. I priced up the fittings and pipe yesterday and believe it or not, copper is cheaper than plastic (well, for the fittings/couplers anyway) 15mm is just over 1/2" and 20mm is just over 3/4". The smaller diameter is cheaper, but not much and I don't want to scrimp on stuff.

I have a large empty butane gas bottle which I intend to use as the holding tank, and can get more easily if I need to add another. I just want to get all the parts together quickly now that I got the pump and get this thing working as soon as possible.

I will have another browse around the forum but there are so many threads

[jegner]

Paul, why copper pipe? Seems like PVC would be easier to connect and assemble, and would be plenty strong to handle the vacuum.
The ball valves are copper that I'm working with, and some iron pipe connectors just because thats what I had, but most is PVC.

Jim

[ANH trooper]

Copper seems more robust than plastic to me. I doubt there is anything wrong with using plastic, but at ten quid a length of copper, it's not going to break the bank

[ThorsgaardFoundry]

[jegner]

With the price of copper so high right now, PVC is a lot cheaper. I already had my ball valves in brass, but use PVC for most of the plumbing.

[ThorsgaardFoundry]

I'm thinking pvc will be better for flow, is that right? I got a pvc 3 way valve that I intend on using .. well, it's open one way [to the right] then switch to open the other[left] way..Anyways, it's a full inch bore, and then my plumbing to the vac pump and tank is all 3/4". A 3/4" brass ball valve has a smaller inside diameter, so it'd cut some flow, right? Or how does that werk? A smaller hole would increase rate of flow? so I dunno..

But I have it and will use it since it's one more piece I don't have to buy.

[ANH trooper]

OK, I got the vacuum pump checked over and tested...everything is working well I got an air filter too at the same time so it is now ready to plumb up to my empty gas bottles.

I decided to a buid a completely new machine for the new year, and have based the design much like Clonesix's, only using a wooden frame which was much cheaper (for me).

I always wanted an over under machine from the very start, but wasn't sure I would be able to make it work so for my first machine, I made a flip flop design. I just need to do a bit more work and get the frames to rise up now. I tested them manually and they go up and down with no resistance. so will work on the operating arms for those soon.

I have the 10' of coiled #22 NiChrome on it's way so things are looking up

I'll keep you update as and when I have any more news.

-Paul.

[TK 109]

nice work!


_________________
-Alex

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[Stomper]

Hey Paul,

It looks like your workshop is in the belfry of a shire watchtower!
_________________
Tony Krewson
FEAR... is not my god!!

[jegner]

Looking good! Can't wait to see some 'in progress' shots of the machine working!

Jim

[ANH trooper]

Thanks fellas

I've made some progress and have the lifting mechanism fitted. Got it working after much stress getting the pivot points right, and just have some very fine tuning to do before I am happy with it.

I have a question maybe someone can help me with?

The empty gas bottles I am using for my holding tanks, I need to calculate the volume. It measures 40" in diameter and 22" high. Could someone do the math for me and let me know the volume in gallons please?

Pics to follow shortly

[cod]

huh, I calculate 108 U.S. gallons- but that can't be right, can it ?


could you pour 108 gals of milk in your tank?


her's my math:

cylinder volume = r*r*h*Pi

19.75 is roughly inner radius, assuming .25" tank walls

= 26,945.5175 cubic inches

divide by 1728 for cubic feet= 15.593470775463

convert to US gals = 116.64



bahhh. I get different results every time!

good luck.
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<.o'>

[ahillworks]

Well all I can say is it looks nice. Also I wish I had the cash and time to do my frame and slide in metal I always liked that idea and seems more sterdy.