www.TK560.com

I_MADE_THIS · Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 7:00 am Post subject: DIY guide . . .?

New watcher-1st time poster! This is the first forum i've finally stumbled across that talks about vacuum forming! I have purchased a DIY vacuum forming book, but don't like the folding design table it uses.
I've seen the Ralis design which is the way that i was thinking to make it(which he did so i can follow those instructions)-he he!!
Where can i find the DIY guide everyone mentions on here, but i obviously haven't found?
Thanks!
i know ill enjoy this forum!!

propsculptor · Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 9:51 am Post subject:

Here is the link:
http://www.tk560.com/vactable4.html

It's based on Thurston James' vacuum forming machine from his book
The Prop Builder's Molding and Casting Handbook, page 175.

I_MADE_THIS · Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 11:45 am Post subject:

Although i have seen these plans somewhere else before; THANKS!! Now that i think about it, i saw a ig blue water tank at the junkyard, but since it's an auto yard, i may have to fight the guy to let me purchase it!
I think my main concern is just trying to get the right heating setup.

jegner · Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 5:11 pm Post subject:

There are pros and cons to the over/under and the flip/flop design. Most of the posters here use the flip-flop design. One of my earlier designs was an over/under so I sort of dig both. Laughing

I_MADE_THIS · Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:55 pm Post subject:

Well, i would have to disagree. I believe the flip/flop design has a con because it takes up more lateral space than the vertical over/under design. As for the flip/flop design, if you heat the "plastic" too much; is there a possibility of a sag happening during flipping?

jegner · Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 7:31 pm Post subject:

There are pros and cons to BOTH over/under AND flip-flop designs. I like them both, have made both, and prefer the flip-flop personally. Yes it does take a little more space in the shop, and I have never really had an issue with the sagging, because the flip-flop action happens really fast, no real time for this to be an issue. The over/under seems to have a lot of heat loss out of the top, most of the convection type heat is gone, leaving only radiant heat to get the plastic warm. This makes it harder to get the corners heated well on this type of design AND requires your heater to be very well regulated in order to get good even heating.

Jim

Blaxmyth · Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 1:50 am Post subject:

Hmm, you've just made me have a massive rethink about the over/under machine I've been planning! Very Happy

Might just make a change of plans and try the flip-flop type first. It was the bit about the heat loss out of the top that did it, plus the bit about the corners.

Thanks, Jim!

Phil

thebluecanary · Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:52 am Post subject:

I'm going with the flip/flop because I don't have the hight. My work room is at max 8ft high, but with the pipes, and heating vents it can drop to 6ft in spots, so moving the over/under woul be a pain. (I justed moved my old tool cabinet, and I had to cut it in half. Not upset about that, it came with the house.)

I_MADE_THIS · Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:35 pm Post subject:

Well, has anyone thought of, or tried to make sides for the over/under design to keep the heat in? Maybe something that is quickly removed incase you need more room to work while setting the plastic over the mold. . . . .

jegner · Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 7:28 am Post subject:

Most of the over/under designs I see already have some sort of cowling to help regulate the heat, but you are working against physics with the heater on top, as hot air rises. The vertical clearance is an issue as the forming platen needs to be about table top height, around 30 inches. With most ceilings are 96 inches, and you need some clearance between the top of your heater and the ceiling. This starts to cut into your vertical depth for an over/under design.

Proto-form plans are available online for purchase, but to be honest, these plans are pretty high. $100 plus, IIRC. Still, a good option if you really want the over/under version.

Jim

I_MADE_THIS · Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 7:49 am Post subject:

proto-form . . .? Over/under design i take it.

I have a work area in my finished shed. I can easily cut the space to make the unit fit the height. I was just wondering if it was worth it, aka-the vertical space saving capability versus the low profile, heat capable flip design. Maybe 'll just build the flip design and build a table top that mountsover the top for convenience. Or, atleast slides under a bench.

Thanks for the opinions and info gang!

jegner · Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:00 am Post subject:

For space saving, design your flip flop machine to be a table top version, that way you can ditch the cumbersome tables, and if you are lucky, make them stackable when not in use. [Set the oven unit on top of the forming platen section] This is an idea I am working on, but so far, have not had the time to construct.

Jim

thebluecanary · Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:33 am Post subject:

Mattax · Expert Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 160 Location: Virginia

I am going with the over/under design.
Her is a picture of it, not yet completed.
http://www.tk560.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=180

For the oven, the box is made out of stainless steel and wrapped with the insulation from a stripped oven. Also using the heating element and electronics from the oven to regulate the temps. The oven box will be aprox 24 x 24 x 12 and the plastic frame holder will be slightly larger so that only the plastic will be under the oven opening. While it will not be sealed tight, the heat will have nowhere to go but into the plastic.

I am still working out issues with clamping the plastic frame together and sizing the oven box to fit this as described above. I pretty much have it figured out, just need to sit down and put in the measurements.
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