is Luke Warmwater's version of the Rebel Fleet Soldier's DH17 Blaster.
Based on the Sterling L2A3 machine gun with lots of modifications
to the barrel and magazine, this blaster is first seen in the opening
sequences of Star Wars.This tutorial includes the basic instruction
for constructing your own version from common hardware store parts,
including the "aimpoint scope". Some of the parts like
the endcap and pistol grip are resin castings
from a real gun, but these parts are easily made from plywood, and
PVC endcaps. Use your creativity and make your own version! Its
easy, and here's how.
is the breakdown: Blaster body fabricaton
1. 15.5 inch length of 1.25 inch diameter PVC pipe for barrel
2. 15.5 inch length of 1 inch pvc pipe for bolt
3. two 10 inch lengths of 1 inch wooden dowel
4. Resin Sterling endcap and grips [available
5. Scrap 3/8" plywood
6. 10 inch length of U channel for top rib
7. 1.25" conduit clamp for the trigger guard,
8. 6" furniture leg for the nozzle.
1. Drill a 1 inch diameter, .5 inch deep hole in the endcap and
placed in on one of the dowels. I used a screw to attach the cap
onto the dowel (instead of gluing, so I could disassemble if required),
along the long axis of the dowel.
2. Mark the centerline of the tube by using the bottom of the endcap.
Mark locations for the grip, trigger assembly and ejection port
(right side) and magazine well (left side). I used the MR pictures
for reference. Cut out the mag well and port using the tool of your
choice. [coping sawe, dremel, rototool, etc. and file to get the
3. Place the dowel into the small pvc pipe, then that into the large
pvc pipe. Drill a pilot hole down into the dowel where the bolt
pullback would be on a real Sterling. Insert a screw into the hole
to hold the tubes together while you work.
4. Cut the shape of the trigger group using the tutorial at the
PVC Blaster Builder's Club. http://www.imperial-fleet.com/BBC/
. In fact, you can scratch build the whole grip if you want to.
Drill pilot holes through the center of the plywood laminate into
the PVC tube and use long screws to attach the group to the tube.
5. Drill and attach the U channel to the top of the barrel, one
end flush to the endcap.
is the breakdown for the Scope fabrication
1.3 1 to 3/4" Copper Pipe Reducers
2. 3/4 inch wooden dowel
3. Hair Spray clear cap
4. Scope Mounts
Made the scope
out of copper plumbing parts with a 3/4 inch wooden dowel inside
to hold it together. The clear tip is a cap from a chick-grooming
product. The scope mounts are from Bass Pro. The two red caps I
found. I cut one of them to make the ring in the front. This ring
holds the clear cap on. I drove a nail into the dowel front which
will be the orange sight when painted. The scope rings are standard
stuff I found at Bass Pro.
A conduit mount
is the metal piece near the endcap. A brass hook, filed down, is
the trigger. I've cut out the mag well and used chrome tape on the
inner bolt. I also dremeled the spiral grooves in the bolt. I've
also glued plasitc sheeting [garage sale sign] onto the plywood.
Use some artistic liberties with this for your own personal aesthetics.
Besides, if it was supposed to be truly accurate, he wouldn't have
Here is a price
list. Obey Wannn's trip to both HD and Lowes. Here
6" Round taper leg: $1.84
1 1/4" end cap: $.55
Package of 4 1 1/4 EMT Straps (trigger guard): $.78
With tax: $3.41
Package of 25 3/4" flat type drive straps (look like triggers
and I bought enough for the FF): $2.96
#4 size CND Hangar (End piece at rear of blaster): $$.99
7/8" x 48" Dowel: $2.57
1" x 48" Dowel: $2.99
3 1 to 3/4" Copper Pipe Reducers: 3@ 1.59 = $4.77
1"x10' PVC: $2.28
1 1/4" PVC: $3.19
Mitre Box with saw: $15.49
HD total with mitre box: $38.01
Without: $22.52 Total so far: $25.93
I got the resin
grips and endcap [available here]
$10-20 plus shipping.
I think I have somewhere between 40 and 50 bucks in this thing.
I used a rustoleum textured paint in black for the main body and
a mettalic silver paint for the nozzle. The silver paint was problematic,
while looking like metal it is not as silvery as I had hoped. If
I had to do it over again I would use a hobby-type silver paint
instead of rustoleum.
I'm not planning on doing much weathering, going to let that happen
naturally. Editor's note: With a bottle of model painters silver
paint, and a brush, worn spots can be painted on plastic using a
"dry-brush" technique. Simply dip your paintbrush into
the paint, and wipe off most of the paint from the brush using a
paper towel. Then accent the edges and corners with this dry brush.
The results will suprise you. Also, note that where real metal parts
are used, you can simply scratch off the paint in places that would
wear if used in the "real world"
I still have to go back to my hobby store and get some plastic t-track
for the sides. My hobby store is great-it sells all sorts of metal
and plastic shapes and sheets for scratchbuilding anything from
RC aircraft to model train-layout buildings.
Also: back where I put the furniture leg onto the front for a nozzle-
I cut the projecting part of the forward dowel flush with the tubes
and drilled a hole in the center. The furniture leg has a screw
on the end and I just screwed it into the hole I drilled, then glued